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Re: Leaking Hydraulic Fluif Reservoir

To: MotoPsyche@aol.com
Subject: Re: Leaking Hydraulic Fluif Reservoir
From: Bob labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Date: Tue, 04 May 2004 19:26:43 -0400
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <134.2e87e365.2dc97b86@aol.com>
User-agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; U; Linux i686; en-US; rv:1.1) Gecko/20020826
MotoPsyche@aol.com wrote:
> With no exploded view of the hydraulic fluif reservoir available (to me, 
> anyway), I would welcome a description of the order in which the fittings 
> (washers, gaskets, nuts, etc.) are attached.  For starters, from the bottom 
>up, there 
> are the two nozzles attached to the two lines leading to the master 
>cylinders. 
>  These then are attached to the body of the reservoir.  What's the order of 
> fittings from there on up, including the metal tube for the clutch portion?  
> 
> And while we're at it, what's the best material for the gasket?  Cork?  
> Neoprene?  I'm using silicone brake fluif.
> 
> As soon as this problem is licked I can pump silicone throughout the lines 
> and be back on the road.  
> 
> TIA,
> 
> Bill Stagg
> 1960 TR3A

Bill,

Many years ago I struggled with this problem. It seemed to always leak 
no matter what I did. If I remember correctly there is a copper washer 
between the nozzle and the base of the can and one on the inside as 
well. At the time I was restoring my '58 I decided to solder the 
nozzles/washers to the can. I figured I would never have to dis-assemble 
the thing if I could solder the complete bottom. To this day I have had 
zero leaks. I dont know if anyone will agree with this method but it did 
work for me.

Bob Labuz

1958 TR3A
1974 T140V
1998 T-Bird T3





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