> There was recently some interesting correspondence on wheel alignment
> and the method outlined by Randall for toe in and camber is most useful.
> There are (I think), 2 other areas that need to ba addressed after a
> complete rebuild and they are:
> 1. The adjustment of the packing pieces at the lower fulcrum brackets
> (ie making the wheel move forward or back) to ensure the car does not
> pull to any side.
My cars haven't had that adjustment, so I didn't cover it. But I believe on
the TR4A, those shims adjust the castor. And as I recall, castor can be
measured by measuring apparent camber with the wheels turned first one
direction, then the other, and subtracting the two measurements.
> 2. The 'toe in" of the back wheels (perhaps this is the same as for the
> front except that one needs to move packing instead of adjusting by
> screw).
Yup, same process should work.
> You also, presumably need to prevent "crabbing" so they both
> need to be true to the front wheels.
This isn't particularly critical, IMO, so I just check it with a long
straightedge held against the tire sidewalls. Somewhere I've read of a
method using string & jackstands that is probably more accurate.
Rear wheel camber should also be checked/adjusted on IRS Triumphs. There's
a good article on this subject in the July 2002 issue of the Buckeye
Triumphs Newsletter, which can be found at
http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/newsletter/PDF_Files/Jul2002.pdf
Randall
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