The job is done, thanks to evryone that provided guidance during the
process. As previously reported, I was able to remove the rear upper a-arm
by removing 3 of the 4 bolts holding the fulcrum pin and rotate it enough to
get the arm and busings off and reinstalled. I was able to replace all the
bolts without talking the spring out - one less headache. The right side
was even easier, there was enough room to squeeze the arm off and back on
again without loosening the fulcrum pin. Hmmm...
Next problem was replacing the idler arm. Iif you recall, the problem there
was the silent block came apart and now I had to remove the entire center
link to replace it, which, of course meant both of them since I was sure to
destroy the other one removing it.
This is where I left off last message - how do I get the tie-rod end off so
I don't destroy that also? The answer came from a friend that loaned me a
tool that looked a lot like the one at this link on the web site Randall
passed along.
http://www.otctools.com/frames-newcatalog.php3
It had a ball bearing on the end of the bolt instead of the dohickey in the
picture and it seemed to be of different dimensions, but it worked like a
charm. Popped it right out with no damage to the idler arm joint at all.
You are right Randall, if you are going to do any amount of front end work,
one of these will save you a bunch of swearing and a lot of parts.
I took the center link to the garage we use for Tune 'n Tech's and used his
20 ton press to remove and replace the silent blocks. It's all back together
and I test drove it tonight - nothing fell off that I know of :-), no
squeaks, steers a bit harder, but not too hard, so I'm back in business.
Thanks again, one and all.
Bob
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