For really tight bends on brake lines Eastwood http://
www.eastwoodco.com lines sells a specially designed "pair of pliers".
I have a pair and they work fine. Currently they are on sale.
49074 Brake Tubing Forming Pliers
Was: $29.99
Now: $19.99
You will still need a regular tubing bender for the normal bends. NFI
and all of that.
Mike Denman
On Mar 11, 2008, at 4:44 PM, Randall wrote:
>> With the engine out
>> the front end brake lines are a straight-forward replacement,
>> but from there back it looks like a job and a half. Has
>> anyone out there done this?
>
> I've not done a TR4, but it should be essentially identical to a
> TR3A and
> they look pretty easy; other than having to work under the car on
> your back.
> The lines that run along the rear axle are the hardest, but the only
> really
> important part is being sure they can't get pinched or abraded by
> the axle
> check straps. The shape at the straps is kind of complicated, so
> pictures
> of the routing before you remove the old ones would be a really good
> idea,
> IMO.
>
>> Also, I would go with Moss's cupro-nickel kit and a bending
>> tool from my FLAPS.
>
> Check to see how sharp a radius bend it will make. Some of the
> original
> bends are really short (like at the rear brake cylinders). I was
> lucky
> enough to find a tool that would do 1/2" radius bends, but I have no
> idea
> where to find one today (and it's still not quite as tight as some
> of the
> factory bends). And even then, I had to modify it to put the bend
> close to
> the nut (cut a notch for the nut to fit into).
>
> Randall
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