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Re: [TR] TR2/4A Rear Crank Seal installation

To: tr3driver@ca.rr.com, triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/4A Rear Crank Seal installation
From: Catpusher@aol.com
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 01:30:29 EDT
Hi Randall, thanks for all of your great posts!
 
After the one seal failure on the dyno, where the oil actually made it to  
the ceiling of Huffaker's dyno room (most embarrassing, although Joe was  
understanding) I spent a great deal of time asking many people what they knew  
about this kind of oil seal.  No one could tell me how deep the threads in  
the seal needed to be,
so I bored a number of seals, and they all worked with some reduced  depth. 
 In addition to dressing the split line, one can hammer on the seal  face 
to close the ID; an old school secret from a dear departed friend.
 
I wanted to test the length of the first message, to see if MJB's  
wonderful system would truncate the end;
as that is a most appropriate part of this fine system.
I will soon post how to change a seal in place, but part one had to  be 
posted first.
 
btw: do to no fault of my own, the dyno day was on the Friday when I had to 
 make it to Barstow, CA by Sunday night to arrive at the Atlanta ARRC in  
time.  It was very late when I returned to SF Friday, with the TR motor  
where the GT6+ passenger's seat normally was (also how I drove the motor to the 
 
dyno) I had to pull the crank, as I had not yet figured out how to avoid 
that,  install a used crank seal with the old, modified
crank, and put it back together with the good crank.  I then had to  
install the motor in the race car, pack, hook the TR3 to the back of the E 
Type,  
and drive.  I was very happy when the race motor had no leak after the  
first track session at Road Atlanta, as that was my first chance to find  out.
 
Hardy
 
 
In a message dated 4/14/2010 4:15:08 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
tr3driver@ca.rr.com writes:

Hi  Hardy, thanks for the detailed description.  You wrote:

>   (I made a jig from two rear main caps to  size the seals
> in a  lathe)

Does this mean you removed material from the mating faces and  then bored 
the
seal back to round?  (Kind of like line-boring an  engine block)

> 8.  The tool can be used to align a seal with  the crank in
> place...Interested?

Someone was asking that very  question recently, plus I'd like to know how
you do it.  Please tell  us.

-- Randall 

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