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[TR] TR3A Radiator Fan

Subject: [TR] TR3A Radiator Fan
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen)
Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2018 19:36:26 -0400
References: <001a01d3b7e7$f311e140$d935a3c0$@gmail.com> <CANzE1bGYZ-r9TFAhQTUxkKNrcCbR-yC+JgiySGdAR0F13kH2tw@mail.gmail.com>
Thanks for the note.  As an update for everyone, I switched the wires on the 
electric fan and drove for about 10 minutes with the fan on (now blowing into 
the radiator from front) and everything worked great until the car completely 
lost power.  After getting the car back home ( 2 blocks)  I realized that the 
wire blew off (not by wind, looks like it shorted) one of the terminals on the 
underdash switch that controls the fan.  It also blew the inline fuse installed 
from that terminal to the ignition switch.  I am thinking reversing the wires 
may have been an issue with a positive ground car.  I will now move my plan to 
convert the 3a to negative ground.  Jim Henningsen

 

From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com> 
Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2018 12:16 PM
To: Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Radiator Fan

 


 

1961 TR3A, stock motor setup, with stock radiator that includes crank hole.
My temp even on a 68 degree day in Florida today runs at the mark between
185 and 230.  Assume 200 or a little higher?...

 

In my opinion you have a problem that no fan will solve.

 

I routinely drive my TR3A (with a crank hole) in 100+ temps with no overheating 
or even the high temps you are seeing under much cooler conditions.  But I have 
cleaned out the block, re-cored the radiator, mostly blocked the bypass, have a 
Tropical Fan and added an air-dam.

 

Some of those steps may be uneccessary but I suspect the radiator core and/or 
accumulation of crud in the block may be at the heart of the issue.

 

Also worthwhile to verify that your gauge is being truthful - get a second 
opinion with an IR thermometer.

 

Geo

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