As it relates to the new seal design where you don?t need to grind the scroll;
check the flywheel bolt length and protrusion as even the stock bolts can
interfere and contact the seal. I just installed one and had to grind a small
amount off the ends of the stock bolts. I understand the ARP bolts must be
ground as well. Otherwise a good improvement.
JVV
From: Dave
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2018 9:22 PM
To: auprichard at uprichard.net
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] rear oil seal conversion
The stock crank is good beyond regular 6000 revs. 6500 on the over rev, if it
is machine with the correct radius on the journals, balanced and nitrided. I
have good experience with this and learned the facts from experts. The rods
are the weaker link, but if they are crack checked and balanced, they should be
good to 5500. They are designed for 5-5500 stock. Kas Kastner used all
factory parts in his factory team cars for years, because those were the rules,
and his drivers certainly revved them well beyond 5500. The rods are known to
break at the oil hole in the middle of the length of the rod. The hole provide
lubrication to the piston skirt and liner. In the past, for racing, the holes
were welded up to prevent failure there. Carrillo rods, or something similar
from a quality supplier are great insurance for a performance build.
The seal shouldn't need to be changed, unless during set up or other reasons it
is leaking badly. Of course, if the engine is apart, always replace.
The newer seal design is superior and the scroll doesn't need to be machined
off the crank. It combines the original crank seal design, with a groove
machined for a Viton radial oil seal. So far, they have excellent results
eliminating rear seal leaks.
Rev on,
Dave H.
Sent from my iPad
On Mar 14, 2018, at 2:45 PM, auprichard at uprichard.net wrote:
List: what is the general consensus about replacing rear oil seal
conversions?
I have a smallmouth TR3 which is pulling well way past the 5500 rpm mark, so
rather than risk a failure of a 60 year-old cast iron connecting rod, I think I
will pull the engine and install steel rods. I had thought about a steel
crank, but the 4-cylinder engines have a remarkably robust crank (and money
does become an option). The car has many upgrades, and I really should have
gone with steel rods originally.
Anyway, the engine has the Moss rear oil seal conversion (with the machined
crank). Should the seal be replaced as a matter of routine? The engine only
has about 2000 miles on it.
Andrew Uprichard
Jackson, Michigan
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