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I have heard several anecdotes about folks making the change by just bleed=
ing and experiencing some sort of brake system failure soon there-after.=C2=
=A0 Makes me wonder if they would have suffered the same failure regardless=
.=C2=A0 I think DOT5 gets a bum wrap in these situations even if the seals =
are marginal to begin.=C2=A0 There is little indication that a seal is abou=
t to go so when it does fail one tends to blame the last thing one did to i=
t.=C2=A0 But correlation does not prove causality.=C2=A0 Seals fail when no=
thing is done (especially if nothing is done).
I have converted three cars to DOT 5 and every time it was part of a total =
rebuild of the system.=C2=A0 I converted my TR6 in 1996 and it performed fl=
awlessly for 12 -15 years.=C2=A0 I replaced the master cylinder several yea=
rs back and more recently replaced all the lines (part of the frame repair =
this past year) but the calipers and wheel cylinders are still working just=
fine.=C2=A0 I converted the TR8 in 2000 and had no issues up until I wreck=
ed the car in 2009 (over 50,000 miles).
I guess the upshot is if your braking system has been performing well for t=
he last 15 - 20 years, you're running on borrowed time.=C2=A0 Start making =
plans to overhaul it soon.=C2=A0 Regardless of what fluid you are using.
=20
Dave=20
=20
=20
-----Original Message-----
From: Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: 'Sujit Roy' <triumphstag@gmail.com>
Cc: 'Triumphs' <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Nov 28, 2018 11:40 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] Brake fluid for Triumph
> Can I use DOT 5 in the Stag? Do I need to flush out the=20
> current DOT 3/ 4?
Both of my Stags have DOT 5 in them.=C2=A0 LE1473 was converted just by ble=
eding
through at each corner until clean purple fluid appeared.=C2=A0 The other o=
ne
(dubbed Frankenstag because it appears to be parts from at least 3 differen=
t
cars) had a failed MC and stuck rear wheel cylinders when I got it, so thos=
e
were repaired at the same time.
However, LE1473 already had what seemed to be a minor master cylinder
problem before the conversion (pedal would sometimes drop towards floor
while sitting at a stop light), and it suddenly got a whole lot worse not
long after the conversion (no hydraulic brakes at all).=C2=A0 (I also learn=
ed
that the back brakes on a Stag are more prone to fade than a TR3.)
Post-mortem showed both MC piston seals torn, and approximately the
consistency of Gummi Bears.
So I'd have to say that "best practice" is probably to replace the seals at
the same time.
Randall
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<font color=3D'black' size=3D'3' face=3D'Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif'>
<div> <font size=3D"3">I have heard several anecdotes about folks making th=
e change by just bleeding and experiencing some sort of brake system failur=
e soon there-after. Makes me wonder if they would have suffered the s=
ame failure regardless. I think DOT5 gets a bum wrap in these situati=
ons even if the seals are marginal to begin. There is little indicati=
on that a seal is about to go so when it does fail one tends to blame the l=
ast thing one did to it. But correlation does not prove causality.&nb=
sp; Seals fail when nothing is done (especially if nothing is done).</font>=
</div>
<div><font size=3D"3"><br>
</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"3">I have converted three cars to DOT 5 and every time i=
t was part of a total rebuild of the system. I converted my TR6 in 19=
96 and it performed flawlessly for 12 -15 years. I replaced the maste=
r cylinder several years back and more recently replaced all the lines (par=
t of the frame repair this past year) but the calipers and wheel cylinders =
are still working just fine. I converted the TR8 in 2000 and had no i=
ssues up until I wrecked the car in 2009 (over 50,000 miles).<br>
</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"3"><br>
</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"3">I guess the upshot is if your braking system has been=
performing well for the last 15 - 20 years, you're running on borrowed tim=
e. Start making plans to overhaul it soon. Regardless of what f=
luid you are using.</font><br>
</div>
<div> <br>
</div>
<div style=3D"clear:both"><font size=3D"4">Dave </font><br>
<br>
</div>
<div> <br>
</div>
<div> <br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black">-----=
Original Message-----<br>
From: Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com><br>
To: 'Sujit Roy' <triumphstag@gmail.com><br>
Cc: 'Triumphs' <triumphs@autox.team.net><br>
Sent: Wed, Nov 28, 2018 11:40 pm<br>
Subject: Re: [TR] Brake fluid for Triumph<br>
<br>
<div dir=3D"ltr"><br clear=3D"none">> Can I use DOT 5 in the Stag? Do I =
need to flush out the <br clear=3D"none">> current DOT 3/ 4?<br clear=3D=
"none"><br clear=3D"none">Both of my Stags have DOT 5 in them. LE1473=
was converted just by bleeding<br clear=3D"none">through at each corner un=
til clean purple fluid appeared. The other one<br clear=3D"none">(dub=
bed Frankenstag because it appears to be parts from at least 3 different<br=
clear=3D"none">cars) had a failed MC and stuck rear wheel cylinders when I=
got it, so those<br clear=3D"none">were repaired at the same time.<br clea=
r=3D"none"><br clear=3D"none">However, LE1473 already had what seemed to be=
a minor master cylinder<br clear=3D"none">problem before the conversion (p=
edal would sometimes drop towards floor<br clear=3D"none">while sitting at =
a stop light), and it suddenly got a whole lot worse not<br clear=3D"none">=
long after the conversion (no hydraulic brakes at all). (I also learn=
ed<br clear=3D"none">that the back brakes on a Stag are more prone to fade =
than a TR3.)<br clear=3D"none">Post-mortem showed both MC piston seals torn=
, and approximately the<br clear=3D"none">consistency of Gummi Bears.<br cl=
ear=3D"none"><br clear=3D"none">So I'd have to say that "best practice" is =
probably to replace the seals at<br clear=3D"none">the same time.
<div class=3D"yqt0104839325" id=3D"yqtfd03952"><br clear=3D"none"><br clear=
=3D"none">Randall<br clear=3D"none"><br clear=3D"none"></div>
</div>
</div>
</font>
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