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[TR] TR3 Question -

To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3 Question -
From: Perry Hammock <perryfly@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2020 14:55:40 -0500
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: triumphs@autox.team.net
Was out of town for a couple months and my little TR3 was put to bed without 
any preparation (left town in kind of a hurry, and drive the car practically 
daily in decent weather.

When I got back, it wouldnâ??t start without starting fluid, and ran terribly, 
was rally hard to get off idle.  Needed choke to run.  Underivable.

So I went through what it could be - figured something on startup.  Put some 
fuel treatment in the gas - thinking it had lost oomph while sitting, but 
running was really bad.  Changed plugs, checked fuel pump, timing (have 
pertronix) etc.  seemed like cylinder 2 was not firing -
Plug was definitely not fouled or as dark as other plugs.  Checked wiring - 
switched plug wires, new red rotor, new distributor cap (I use the MG cap with 
push in connectors), then found that if I removed the plug wires one at a time, 
it would nearly die, except for number 2.

Checked valve lash and reset, tied again - checked compression - 133 - 137 
across the board.  Got it running again, got better, then ran good enough to 
drive - went fine.

OK - So maybe bad gas. Would Jake sense that the fuel srtailizer and octane 
booster finally worked its way to the cars.  But, still, cylinder 2 doesnâ??t 
affect engine running as much if spark wire pulled.  Is this a function of the 
firing order?  I cant imagine what it could be - cant be carb - feeds number 1 
as well.  Has big spark, as do all the plugs, and from the cap.

Any ideas?  Sorry for the length of this post and thanks in advance!

Perry
1960 tr3a overdrive
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