Sound like crud in the front carb. Starving just enough for #1 but not #2,
pull your float bowl cover and be sure everything is clean inside. If you
havenâ??t messed with timing or other electrics, the long time parked probably
allowed debris to settle in the bloat bowl or jets.
Bill
TS30800L
#dontkillgrandma
On Dec 28, 2020, at 1:56 PM, Perry Hammock <perryfly@gmail.com> wrote:
Was out of town for a couple months and my little TR3 was put to bed without
any preparation (left town in kind of a hurry, and drive the car practically
daily in decent weather.
When I got back, it wouldnâ??t start without starting fluid, and ran terribly,
was rally hard to get off idle. Needed choke to run. Underivable.
So I went through what it could be - figured something on startup. Put some
fuel treatment in the gas - thinking it had lost oomph while sitting, but
running was really bad. Changed plugs, checked fuel pump, timing (have
pertronix) etc. seemed like cylinder 2 was not firing -
Plug was definitely not fouled or as dark as other plugs. Checked wiring -
switched plug wires, new red rotor, new distributor cap (I use the MG cap with
push in connectors), then found that if I removed the plug wires one at a time,
it would nearly die, except for number 2.
Checked valve lash and reset, tied again - checked compression - 133 - 137
across the board. Got it running again, got better, then ran good enough to
drive - went fine.
OK - So maybe bad gas. Would Jake sense that the fuel srtailizer and octane
booster finally worked its way to the cars. But, still, cylinder 2 doesnâ??t
affect engine running as much if spark wire pulled. Is this a function of the
firing order? I cant imagine what it could be - cant be carb - feeds number 1
as well. Has big spark, as do all the plugs, and from the cap.
Any ideas? Sorry for the length of this post and thanks in advance!
Perry
1960 tr3a overdrive
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