Brian Evans wrote:
> I've been using the Autometer old style gauges lately - they kind of look
> like Stewart Warner gauges from the sixties. Fully mechanical oil pressure
> and water temp. I've found them so much more reliable than the rebuilt or
> new Smiths that I used to try and use (once put three rebuilt water temp
> gauges in over one weekend - and none of them worked for more than five
> minutes!). I tapped the cylinder head hole to 3/8 NPT to get the water
> gauge sender adaptor in. I used a 1/8 NPT to -3 AN adaptor in the oil
> pressure port on the engine, and ran -3 steel braided brake line to the
> gauge. Aside from the line costing more than the gauge, it's been great - a
> very fast reading gauge, and the line won't break, melt, have a hose clamp
> slip, etc. I'm using, for all the very vintage reasons, the original Smiths
> (non-chronometric) mechanical tach that came with the car. It's so far cost
> me as much as a Stack, but I'm sticking with it - each incremental
> investment seems to be small enough that I can't justify the switch to a
> more modern tach on either economic or performance grounds, and it *does*
> look right!
>
> Any hint's/tips form the boys?
>
> Brian (who's GOT all the original gauges, just can't afford to keep them
> working)
>
> >I have found electrical temp and pressure gages to be inaccurate/and/or
> >not as reliable as I would like, therefore I have a mechanical oil
> >pressure gage in the Boss- never installed the water temp gage, and have
> >mechanical oil press and water temp gages in the Truck. They are rock
> >solid. You might consider foregoing a little bit of the originality for
> >reliability.
> >Just my 2 cents.
> >Bill D.
> >
> Brian Evans
> Director, Carrier Sales
> UUNET, an MCI WorldCom Company
> (416) 216 5111
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