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301. Re: Wheel compatability (score: 1): Author: "Mike Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>; Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 09:07:24 -0700; Something you might consider is to make up your own steel wheels. You can use a Morris Major center (stronger than the Sprite) and weld on a 5" rim from say an Isuzu Gemini or anything else suitable.; /html/spridgets/1998-09/msg00852.html (10,989 bytes)
302. Re: Rear Axle Leak (score: 1): Author: "Mike Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>; Date: Wed, 23 Sep 1998 11:12:50 -0700; Here is my $0.02 on this stuff. 1) I use heavy duty sealed bearings instead of the standard type. 2) I use brakekleen or acetone to remove all traces of oil/grease from the hub and the outside seatin; /html/spridgets/1998-09/msg00869.html (11,243 bytes)
303. Re: Rear Axle Leak (score: 1): Author: "Mike Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>; Date: Thu, 24 Sep 1998 08:06:04 -0700; There actually is a pick with a bent end that you can use and what I think is the best (although I don't have one..) is a spatula with a bent end. Actually, it would be easy to make with 1/2" x 1/16"; /html/spridgets/1998-09/msg00922.html (9,201 bytes)
304. Re: Sway Bars. (score: 1): Author: "Mike Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>; Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 08:08:17 -0700; 1/2" is a lot better than none. I'd try that first. The price is right, the mounting hardware is readily available and it will still work just fine. 3/4 is (IMHO) way too thick for normal road use. G; /html/spridgets/1998-09/msg00969.html (9,339 bytes)
305. Re: Sway Bars. (score: 1): Author: "Mike Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>; Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 08:11:50 -0700; What I actually meant to say is a road sprite that is driven rather spritedly and that needs to be comfortable etc. Mike; /html/spridgets/1998-09/msg00970.html (10,300 bytes)
306. Re: Sway Bars. (score: 1): Author: "Mike Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>; Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 20:20:19 -0700; Any spring works can make a bar for you. Try your local yellow pages. Mike --Original Message-- From: Andrew Griffith <Andrew.Griffith@ReadRite.com> To: 'Mike Gigante' <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>; Andrew G; /html/spridgets/1998-09/msg00998.html (11,545 bytes)
307. Re: Rear axle casing moving to axles and strength (score: 1): Author: "Mike Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>; Date: Sun, 2 Aug 1998 17:02:06 +1000; Yes, for a while, it was quite common to adapt wire wheel half shafts. It involved some machining (remove the spline at the end). From what others have told me, this was more out of necessity rather; /html/spridgets/1998-08/msg00025.html (9,851 bytes)
308. Re: Front suspension thoughts (again!) (score: 1): Author: "Mike Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>; Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 11:11:59 +1000; I haven't seen anyone make serious mods to the lower outer pin assembly on a standard wishbone, but I have seen the two rear pickups cut off and replaced with rose joints (heim joints?). This also gi; /html/spridgets/1998-08/msg00041.html (9,917 bytes)
309. Re: Front suspension thoughts (again!) (score: 1): Author: "Mike Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>; Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 16:54:26 +1000; I spoke to the club member in question and he is going to provide drawings and a text description. Basically, it uses a modified high tensile bolt and some delrin bushes. You have to remove the exist; /html/spridgets/1998-08/msg00050.html (9,607 bytes)
310. Re: Head Gasket replacement (score: 1): Author: "Mike Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>; Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 10:57:16 +1000; The turbo metro head gasket is my preferred choice. (IMHO) it is better than the competition copper gaskets. Since swapping over from the comp copper, I no longer have problems (this is on my race mo; /html/spridgets/1998-08/msg00115.html (7,955 bytes)
311. Re: ignition timing - please help (score: 1): Author: "Mike Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>; Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 08:28:26 +1000; It mostly depends on which distributor you have. If you have the Marina dizzy, use it's timing data. Mike; /html/spridgets/1998-08/msg00138.html (7,949 bytes)
312. Re: Oil Cooler Placement (score: 1): Author: "Mike Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>; Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 09:09:55 -0700; My favourite place is mounted vertically alongside the radiator - you can use a short section of the heater tubing to direct air directly onto the cooler. Mike List, Would members of the List mind su; /html/spridgets/1998-08/msg00232.html (8,798 bytes)
313. Re: Oil Cooler Placement (score: 1): Author: "Mike Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>; Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 09:14:24 -0700; Putting an oil cooler in front of the radiator is a bad idea since you are reducing the radiator's effectiveness (if the hot air off the oil cooler then passes through the radiator) Mike; /html/spridgets/1998-08/msg00233.html (9,947 bytes)
314. Re: Taking a 67 Sprite out of deep storage... (score: 1): Author: "Mike Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>; Date: Thu, 13 Aug 1998 09:45:16 -0700; $5000! Way over priced unless you can verify the mechanical condition (engine/box/etc). Note that you should plan to flush out the fuel tank, reco the carbs, replace fuel and brake lines, probably re; /html/spridgets/1998-08/msg00285.html (10,015 bytes)
315. Re: Bugeye Front-Hinging Hood (score: 1): Author: "Mike Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>; Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 11:10:49 -0700; Well, on my front hinging bonnet, I get it open far enough that the bonnet is vertical. I have no access problems whatsoever. The only drama is that the brackets are oddly shaped so that they don't i; /html/spridgets/1998-08/msg00439.html (10,871 bytes)
316. Re: Painting the engine compartment (score: 1): Author: "Mike Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>; Date: Fri, 21 Aug 1998 19:26:44 -0700; I have used the Wagner airless spraygun, and I have used the Wagner HVLP ("Finecoat 400") electric spraygun and of course the usual compressor setup. The airless is quite OK, much better than brushin; /html/spridgets/1998-08/msg00451.html (9,211 bytes)
317. Re: Filling Gearbox (score: 1): Author: "Mike Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>; Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 14:01:48 -0700; Yep, that is correct - you may have seen it on the AHSDC's web site - it is in one of the tech tips there (courtesy of the late Bob Gill) http://www.cgl.rmit.edu.au/~mg/cars/ahsdc.htm Mike **; /html/spridgets/1998-08/msg00486.html (7,979 bytes)
318. Re: Fiberglass bonnets (score: 1): Author: "Mike Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>; Date: Wed, 26 Aug 1998 13:40:08 -0700; I bought a fibreglass bonnet from another large US supplier who does lots of mail-order stuff. It too was a terrible fit, ill-shaped and the mould was made from a bonnet that had poorly repaired acci; /html/spridgets/1998-08/msg00570.html (9,150 bytes)
319. Re: 1974 Midget Alignment (score: 1): Author: "Mike Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>; Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 09:44:36 -0700; You might check the car for serious accident damage before you go too far. You can check relative dimension with string and a measuring tape. First check front to back diagonals (inner wishbone mount; /html/spridgets/1998-08/msg00719.html (10,419 bytes)
320. Re: SPRITE Newsletters (score: 1): Author: "Mike Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>; Date: Thu, 2 Jul 1998 09:20:52 +1000; Great Idea! Mike --Original Message-- From: Patton Dickson <kpdii@mindspring.com> To: Curtis Carlson <carlson@navtech.com>; Sprite List <spridgets@autox.team.net> Cc: dr.moses@juno.com <dr.moses@juno; /html/spridgets/1998-07/msg00024.html (9,721 bytes)

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