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Total 9 documents matching your query.

1. [Fot] Synchro (score: 128): Author: mhado at att.net (M&M Hado); Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2017 22:03:15 -0600; I have bought both versions from BPNW and also from Moss. Physically, I can see no difference. They look to be the same dimensions, thickness, even color. Does anyone know the actual difference? I wo; /html/fot/2017-12/msg00124.html (10,950 bytes)
2. [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears (score: 128): Author: mhado at att.net (M&M Hado); Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2018 21:20:57 -0600; Greg, It sounds like one or both of the laygear thrust washers are jammed or damaged which is preventing you from moving the cluster. Also, the smaller or rear thrust washer has to be removed before; /html/fot/2018-01/msg00015.html (10,310 bytes)
3. [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears (score: 151): Author: mhado at att.net (M&M Hado); Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2018 21:52:58 -0600; When the rear washer is not bound, jammed, or damaged, it simply slides out since it has .007 - .012" clearance, if the gear float is within spec. Also, there is an anti-rotation tab that lines up wi; /html/fot/2018-01/msg00016.html (12,884 bytes)
4. [Fot] Adding type A OD (score: 128): Author: mhado at att.net (M&M Hado); Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2018 12:30:43 -0600; Yes, it?s annoying to me, also, when you forget to manually turn off the overdrive and then have it engage when going back into gear. There are at least a couple ways to have it drop out when passing; /html/fot/2018-02/msg00057.html (12,146 bytes)
5. [Fot] Type A OD pressure test (score: 128): Author: mhado at att.net (M&M Hado); Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2018 08:48:34 -0600; Greg, Just a couple more thoughts to add to the good suggestions already offered. I especially liked Jack?s idea of hand-lapping in the aluminum seats with a ball welded to a rod. I?m guessing that m; /html/fot/2018-03/msg00006.html (13,989 bytes)
6. [Fot] Type A OD pressure test (score: 128): Author: mhado at att.net (M&M Hado); Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2018 17:20:56 -0600; I agree. To me using air is not so much to test the ?seals? (O-rings, balls & seats, accumulator piston rings, etc.) but to test the mechanical movement of the overdrive internals. Greg?s test showed; /html/fot/2018-03/msg00015.html (17,966 bytes)
7. [Fot] A-Type Overdrive Dilemma (score: 128): Author: mhado at att.net (M&M Hado); Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2018 22:05:12 -0500; Also, check the eight O.D. springs to make sure they are the correct ones and in the right location. If a ?long? one is installed where a ?short? one should be, the coil may bind before the clutch ha; /html/fot/2018-08/msg00003.html (9,799 bytes)
8. [Fot] D-Type Overdrive Recommended oil (score: 128): Author: mhado at att.net (M&M Hado); Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 09:53:14 -0500; Joe, Not sure if anyone answered you yet but I always use 85-90W GL-4 non-synthetic oil. The GL-4 is easier on the brass/bronze components. The NAPA brand is StaLube 85-90W. O'Reilly also has a 140W; /html/fot/2018-08/msg00040.html (8,792 bytes)
9. [Fot] FW: Fwd: Crown and pinion gear break in (score: 143): Author: mhado at att.net (M&M Hado); Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2018 14:12:12 -0500; FOT: forwarding the email below from Houston Club member Mike Rouse who is not on the list. Mike Hado From: Mike Rouse [mailto:mtrtrain at aol.com] Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2018 10:23 AM To: mhad; /html/fot/2018-09/msg00179.html (16,362 bytes)

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