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Total 13 documents matching your query.

1. Body and paint (score: 1): Author: mg-dennis@mindspring.com; Date: Sat, 08 Dec 2001 09:29:27 -0800; Right now my MGB is close to having all the bodywork finished. I have the doors, hood, trunk, fenders, everything off the body. The guy I'm working with is suggesting painting the fenders off of the; /html/mgs/2001-12/msg00177.html (7,015 bytes)
2. Re: Body and paint (score: 1): Author: "Mark and kathy LaPierre" <mgtrcars@galaxyinternet.net>; Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2001 13:59:07 -0600; Personally I do mine on the car. That way you can have all the bolts in and theres less chance of scratching paint. You can leave them loose in certain areas so the spray penetrates small crevices a; /html/mgs/2001-12/msg00179.html (8,217 bytes)
3. Re: Body and paint (score: 1): Author: Zach Dorsch <herr_dorsch@yahoo.com>; Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 13:46:59 -0800 (PST); I think that I am reading correctly, but are you concerned with how the fenders will line up with body? The panels should always be trial fitted before painting. The PO of my car didn't bother to do; /html/mgs/2001-12/msg00197.html (6,761 bytes)
4. Body and Paint (score: 1): Author: "Murch, Paul" <murch@y-city.net>; Date: Thu, 04 Dec 1997 22:21:02 -0400; Two topics in one night! I have been working on the body of my pull-handle 64-65 and am getting close to actually seeing results. The car is stripped. I currently have front and rear ends under the c; /html/mgs/1997-12/msg00344.html (8,151 bytes)
5. Re: Body and Paint (score: 1): Author: Trevor Boicey <tboicey@brit.ca>; Date: Thu, 04 Dec 1997 23:09:21 -0500; First, you have a be a masochist. If you can meet that objective, then the rest is easy. Frankly, lead loading is a pain in the arse. It's good for building up panel edges, but plastic is so much fas; /html/mgs/1997-12/msg00351.html (7,786 bytes)
6. Re: Body and Paint (score: 1): Author: Ray McCrary <spook01@mindspring.com>; Date: Thu, 04 Dec 1997 22:20:12 -0600; When I restored my wifes' Morris, I mixed Rustoleum into a match with the catalyzed paint on the car. I then applied it over the catalyzed primer/surfacer. Rustoleum has given good service in the pa; /html/mgs/1997-12/msg00355.html (9,172 bytes)
7. Re: Body and Paint (score: 1): Author: bugide@juno.com (Larry Dickstein); Date: Fri, 05 Dec 1997 09:28:41 EST; On Thu, 04 Dec 1997 22:21:02 -0400 "Murch, Paul" <murch@y-city.net> writes: an Eastwood leading kit on the way (hopefully I will use no bondo). I now have a bare unibody. Bondo as the generic term fo; /html/mgs/1997-12/msg00387.html (9,854 bytes)
8. Re: Body and Paint (score: 1): Author: Jim Boyd <ISC@dcsi.net>; Date: Fri, 05 Dec 1997 06:49:13 -0800; Hey Paul: Have you ever heard of Corroless? Its sold by the Eastwood Company (1.800.345.1178/www.eastwoodco.com). It is actually a rust stabilizer that has received national and international awards; /html/mgs/1997-12/msg00388.html (9,733 bytes)
9. Re: Body and Paint (score: 1): Author: Bob MGT <BobMGT@aol.com>; Date: Fri, 5 Dec 1997 11:36:28 EST; I agree, I've heard from several professionals that "Bondo" is better than lead ever was. It's the teenagers trying to build whole cars out of the stuff that gives it a bad name. Bob Donahue (Still; /html/mgs/1997-12/msg00401.html (7,780 bytes)
10. Re: Body and Paint (score: 1): Author: "A. B. Bonds" <ab@vuse.vanderbilt.edu>; Date: 05 Dec 1997 12:44:09 -0600; About three weeks ago I attended a 2-day seminar on bodywork techniques conducted by Mick Lewis of Missisauga, ONT. He began working for H.J. Mulliner in 1956, also worked for Cobra and Rolls Royce,; /html/mgs/1997-12/msg00412.html (8,345 bytes)
11. Re: Body and Paint (score: 1): Author: mmcewen@gpu.srv.ualberta.ca (John McEwen); Date: Fri, 5 Dec 1997 14:37:41 -0500; Hi A.B.: I'm sorry but I must disagree with you. The kind of skill that was demonstrated takes a lifetime to acquire and is unaffordable to all but the most affluent. For the remainder of us, fillers; /html/mgs/1997-12/msg00429.html (10,353 bytes)
12. Re: Body and Paint (score: 1): Author: bugide@juno.com (Larry Dickstein); Date: Sat, 06 Dec 1997 09:35:35 EST; Well, AB, you are right. That is why that type of panel beating costs many thousands of dollars to do a car. I am curious, however, how he manages to "panel beat" surface rust pitting from a panel. L; /html/mgs/1997-12/msg00463.html (8,936 bytes)
13. RE: Body and Paint (score: 1): Author: patti morris <mgj2@globaldialog.com>; Date: Sat, 6 Dec 1997 10:07:21 -0600; I'd like to add that I have plastic filler on MGA that was done in 1976. The filler is fine. I was tought the trick to using it was 1) clean the surface down to bare metal and it's best to rouch up t; /html/mgs/1997-12/msg00466.html (10,273 bytes)

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