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Total 12 documents matching your query.

1. Brakes on 69B (score: 1): Author: "Frank W Phillips JR" <FWP@vpha.health.ufl.edu>; Date: Wed, 8 Jul 1998 15:20:58 EST5EDT; Here is my story. I have recently acquired a 69B that has not driven on its own power for several years. The engine has run but the DPO had removed the master brake cylinder and never completed (or; /html/mgs/1998-07/msg00378.html (7,740 bytes)
2. Re: Brakes on 69B (score: 1): Author: Art Pfenninger <ch155@FreeNet.Buffalo.EDU>; Date: Thu, 9 Jul 1998 13:28:53 -0400 (EDT); Frank I would offer a few suggestions as far as doing your own pipes. Be sure to get a tubing bender. Pep Boys and Parts America both sell a nice one for about $10 dollars. You can use it with the li; /html/mgs/1998-07/msg00421.html (9,147 bytes)
3. Re: Brakes on 69B (score: 1): Author: Simon Westbrook <simon@sageinc.com>; Date: Thu, 09 Jul 1998 12:39:12 -0700; Why does heating then cooling the flares and washers fix the leak?? Simon; /html/mgs/1998-07/msg00435.html (9,508 bytes)
4. Re: Brakes on 69B (score: 1): Author: Art Pfenninger <ch155@FreeNet.Buffalo.EDU>; Date: Fri, 10 Jul 1998 06:43:23 -0400 (EDT); The heat anneals the metal pipe or copper washers. The process of cutting the tubing and bending it into a flare seems to harden it a little. When doing this don't quence the pipe in water or it will; /html/mgs/1998-07/msg00457.html (10,119 bytes)
5. Re: Brakes on 69B (score: 1): Author: ccrobins <ccrobins@ktc.com>; Date: Fri, 10 Jul 1998 07:43:24 -0500; Not too sure I'd want to take the temper out of the steel brake line. Seems like it be prone to breakage due to vibreation, etc. A good, correctly aligned flare connection won't leak. Also, one must; /html/mgs/1998-07/msg00464.html (7,459 bytes)
6. Re: Brakes on 69B (score: 1): Author: "Robert Allen" <boballen@sky.net>; Date: Fri, 10 Jul 1998 08:39:37 -0500; I also wish and need to replace the pipes. I have no problem making my own but would like the full story and any suggestions before I start. Please let me know any tip/tricks you know of. Thanks in a; /html/mgs/1998-07/msg00466.html (8,032 bytes)
7. Re: Brakes on 69B (score: 1): Author: "Frank W Phillips JR" <FWP@vpha.health.ufl.edu>; Date: Fri, 10 Jul 1998 09:44:45 EST5EDT; I hope to be leak free from the start, if not??? As stated in my original post the DPO removed the master cylinder several years ago. I am doing a rather complete rebuild of the brake system (I like; /html/mgs/1998-07/msg00467.html (8,098 bytes)
8. Re: Brakes on 69B (score: 1): Author: Craig White <cwhite@ns1.onramp.tuscaloosa.al.us>; Date: Fri, 10 Jul 1998 11:17:58 -0500 (CDT); I just purchased a 1977 MGB and while investigating a pull under braking, I discovered that the drivers rear line had been smashed leaving a nice crimp. I've been looking for the line and was about; /html/mgs/1998-07/msg00479.html (8,470 bytes)
9. Re: Brakes on 69B (score: 1): Author: "S. L. Hower" <howersl@mailexcite.com>; Date: Fri, 10 Jul 1998 08:10:00 -0700; I have a set of brake lines on my 73B in stainless steel from Classic Tube and Line. They are a bit pricey, but they fit perfectlyeven the one that snakes around the crossmember. Best of all, they w; /html/mgs/1998-07/msg00481.html (9,247 bytes)
10. Re: Brakes on 69B (score: 1): Author: Eric Zambori <eaz@snet.net>; Date: Fri, 10 Jul 1998 16:43:06 -0700; Now the important question - What did the new brake lines and clutch lines cost. THANKS Eric Zambori eaz@snet.net; /html/mgs/1998-07/msg00490.html (8,627 bytes)
11. Re: Brakes on 69B (score: 1): Author: Art Pfenninger <ch155@FreeNet.Buffalo.EDU>; Date: Sat, 11 Jul 1998 16:10:05 -0400 (EDT); This really doesn't take the temper out of the lines it simply makes the bubble flare a little easier to seal. The lines are still solid and much stronger than copper. Even the flare is stronger than; /html/mgs/1998-07/msg00525.html (8,338 bytes)
12. Re: Brakes on 69B (score: 1): Author: Art Pfenninger <ch155@FreeNet.Buffalo.EDU>; Date: Sat, 11 Jul 1998 16:21:23 -0400 (EDT); Per the previous posts over the last few days, my vote would be to make you own. A 54" straight pipe with a bubble flare end will cost about $3.50. Another $10 for a line bender (which you will have; /html/mgs/1998-07/msg00527.html (9,240 bytes)

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