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Total 22 documents matching your query.

1. Engine won't run (score: 1): Author: "Joe Boruch" <jaboruch@netzero.net>; Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2005 05:08:59 GMT; This past weekend I showed up at the SCCA regional at Lime Rock only to have may car not start in the morning. It would start for about 1 second and then die off. Checked carbs and there was plenty o; /html/fot/2005-08/msg00071.html (9,474 bytes)
2. Re: Engine won't run (score: 1): Author: "John Kipping" <johnkipping@inet.net.nz>; Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2005 20:49:59 +1200; Presumably it's nothing to do with a ballast resistor in the circuit? John Kipping -- Original Message -- From: "Joe Boruch" <jaboruch@netzero.net> To: <fot@autox.team.net> Sent: Tuesday, August 09,; /html/fot/2005-08/msg00075.html (10,546 bytes)
3. Re: Engine won't run (score: 1): Author: "Joe Boruch" <jaboruch@netzero.net>; Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2005 12:16:50 GMT; I have tried it with and without ballast resistors and with new ones, to no -- \"John Kipping\" wrote: Presumably it's nothing to do with a ballast resistor in the circuit? John Kipping -- Original M; /html/fot/2005-08/msg00077.html (10,605 bytes)
4. Re: Engine won't run (score: 1): Author: "Bill Sohl" <billsohl@mindspring.com>; Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2005 09:03:35 -0400; Do you have a complete spare distributor? Perhaps even just a stock one. If yes. I'd swap the whole distributor to see if it then starts/runs to either ID the Mallory distributor as the suspect or n; /html/fot/2005-08/msg00078.html (10,848 bytes)
5. Re: Engine won't run (score: 1): Author: "Joe Boruch" <jaboruch@netzero.net>; Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2005 19:04:29 GMT; Yes, that is my plan for tonight's crack at making it run. Thanks. Joe(B) Do you have a complete spare distributor? Perhaps even just a stock one. If yes. I'd swap the whole distributor to see if it; /html/fot/2005-08/msg00081.html (10,898 bytes)
6. Re: Engine won't run (score: 1): Author: "SHANE Ingate" <hottr6@hotmail.com>; Date: Tue, 09 Aug 2005 15:16:39 -0400; Check your harmonic dampner; if the rubber has sheared, then the timing marks are useless. Only way to check is through the plug hole at TDC. Shane Ingate in Maryland; /html/fot/2005-08/msg00082.html (7,755 bytes)
7. Re: Engine won't run (score: 1): Author: "Jack W. Drews" <vinttr4@geneseo.net>; Date: Tue, 09 Aug 2005 14:39:02 -0500; I had a somewhat similar problem last year at the last race of the season. First it would run right, then it would run awful, and finally it quit altogether. Every time I checked the timing, it was d; /html/fot/2005-08/msg00083.html (11,085 bytes)
8. RE: Engine won't run (score: 1): Author: Bill Babcock <BillB@bnj.com>; Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2005 13:10:55 -0700; Yuck. This is probably preaching to the choir, but here's the approach I would follow. First--pull one plug lead and connect it to a test plug. You make one of these by wrapping a little safety wire; /html/fot/2005-08/msg00089.html (9,637 bytes)
9. Re: Engine won't run (score: 1): Author: "kas kastner" <kaskas@cox.net>; Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2005 20:47:26 -0700; Old adage from a Buick mechanic that was 300 years old when I was about 16. "You need four things for the engine to run." 1. Spark 2. Compression 3. Fuel 4. Ignition Now those four things, PLUS 6,000; /html/fot/2005-08/msg00091.html (10,401 bytes)
10. Re: Engine won't run (score: 1): Author: "Joe Boruch" <jaboruch@netzero.net>; Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 03:52:19 GMT; Having had the dizzy off a number of times with the engine at TDC, the slot in the distributor drive has always lined up with the #1 spark plug. So that is telling me that the cam timing is ok, or at; /html/fot/2005-08/msg00092.html (11,869 bytes)
11. RE: Engine won't run (score: 1): Author: Bill Babcock <BillB@bnj.com>; Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2005 22:41:34 -0700; Sounds like my Dad. He said "if the engine won't run, it's sparks". Unless it compression, or you don't have any gas. big help. _____ Old adage from a Buick mechanic that was 300 years old when I was; /html/fot/2005-08/msg00094.html (10,944 bytes)
12. Re: Engine won't run (score: 1): Author: "Joe Boruch" <jaboruch@netzero.net>; Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2005 00:47:51 GMT; Thanks for all of the suggestions about my engine problem. I think I found the problem - 2 bad condensors. One was new this year the other was from last year. Not sure why they are failing. I also fo; /html/fot/2005-08/msg00108.html (9,403 bytes)
13. RE: Engine won't run (score: 1): Author: Bill Babcock <BillB@bnj.com>; Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 18:21:55 -0700; Condensers do go bad, for a lot of reasons, but usually they are born bad, or have a flaw that will make them fail. Their failure mode is to short out, but usually it's not a dead short, just a break; /html/fot/2005-08/msg00109.html (10,987 bytes)
14. RE: Engine won't run (score: 1): Author: "barry rosenberg" <britcars@bellsouth.net>; Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2005 07:34:53 -0400; I have seen bad condensers for years with Mallory dual points. And I two new sets of points for mine before the Mitty. One was their higher performance set and the other stock. Neither worked very we; /html/fot/2005-08/msg00114.html (8,922 bytes)
15. RE: Engine won't run (score: 1): Author: Bill Babcock <BillB@bnj.com>; Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2005 07:42:19 -0700; That's really the problem. Condensers used to be an important part of electronics, and very good companies made very good condensers. They are still important, but instead of big handfuls of them in; /html/fot/2005-08/msg00115.html (9,487 bytes)
16. RE: Engine won't run (score: 1): Author: "Joe Boruch" <jaboruch@netzero.net>; Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2005 16:26:11 GMT; If they can't make things as simple as points and condensors right, it makes me wonder about their electronic systems. Joe(B) -- \"barry rosenberg\" wrote: I have seen bad condensers for years with M; /html/fot/2005-08/msg00122.html (8,779 bytes)
17. RE: Engine won't run (score: 1): Author: Bill Babcock <BillB@bnj.com>; Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2005 10:27:23 -0700; Well there's that. Actually modern electronic CAN be made pretty foolproof, but they often are not. For example, there should be no requirement to connect power with a specific polarity, or at the ve; /html/fot/2005-08/msg00125.html (9,441 bytes)
18. RE: Engine won't run (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>; Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2005 22:45:41 -0700; Any idea how much leakage is considered allowable ? Randall; /html/fot/2005-08/msg00163.html (8,138 bytes)
19. RE: Engine won't run (score: 1): Author: Bill Babcock <BillB@bnj.com>; Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2005 12:33:11 -0700; Nope. Less leakage is better. I did a quick Google search and didn't come up with much. If you can't find a automotive coil/condenser checker then what you need is a high voltage DC power supply and; /html/fot/2005-08/msg00166.html (8,747 bytes)
20. RE: Engine won't run (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>; Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2005 10:00:45 -0700; Been trying to buy one on eBay, but I keep getting outbid. Guess others want them more than I do. I'm guessing that the leakage current should be well below 1 ma for a healthy condensor. Guess I'll; /html/fot/2005-08/msg00179.html (8,212 bytes)

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