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Total 10 documents matching your query.

1. tie rods and gaiters (score: 1): Author: "MonteMorris" <mmorris@nemr.net>; Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 19:28:38 -0800; I need to replace the gaiters (rack seals) on a 79B. According to the Moss catalog removal instructions, I need a tie rod end separator or two hammers to get the tie rod end off the steering arm ( I'; /html/mgs/2002-03/msg00650.html (8,116 bytes)
2. RE: tie rods and gaiters (score: 1): Author: "Larry Hoy" <larryhoy@prodigy.net>; Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 19:23:43 -0700; I think you got it Monte, however my experience tells me it's more than a tap... Loosen the nut just enough to have a small space between the nut and the mating surface, and make sure there are no th; /html/mgs/2002-03/msg00651.html (9,503 bytes)
3. Re: tie rods and gaiters (score: 1): Author: "mgamgb" <mgamgb@ihug.co.nz>; Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 15:47:32 +1200; All you need to do is to back off the tie rod lock nut. Unscrew the tie rod from the outer ball joint unit, taking care to count the number of turns as you do this. ( the tie rod will rotate inside t; /html/mgs/2002-03/msg00656.html (7,836 bytes)
4. Re: tie rods and gaiters (score: 1): Author: "Harlan Jillson" <harlanjillson@covad.net>; Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 21:02:26 -0600; Monty, Easy. Get a tool called a pitman arm seperator. Looks kind of like a big fork with two splines, and a really thick handle. Normal tie rod end splitters won't work because the parts are too sm; /html/mgs/2002-03/msg00657.html (8,042 bytes)
5. Re: tie rods and gaiters (score: 1): Author: "mgamgb" <mgamgb@ihug.co.nz>; Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 16:36:23 +1200; on If you do happen to have a ball joint separator, then the Moss method is easier, cos it is quite easy to unscrew the ball joint off the tie rod. A tip - When screwing the tie rod back into the ba; /html/mgs/2002-03/msg00658.html (7,871 bytes)
6. Re: tie rods and gaiters (score: 1): Author: "james" <jamesnazarian@netzero.net>; Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2002 23:31:42 -0700; you have the right idea, apply pressure down on the steering arm and hit the tie rod bolt up. If you want to reuse the rodends you should only slacken the nut holding the rodend to the steering arm a; /html/mgs/2002-03/msg00659.html (9,314 bytes)
7. Re: tie rods and gaiters (score: 1): Author: Paul Root <proot@iaces.com>; Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 07:32:11 -0600; I did this last summer, and had a terrible time. Turns out I needed to do the tie rod ends too, so it worked out. Tie rod ends are only about $20 a set anyway. So, first. DO NOT USE A tie rod end sep; /html/mgs/2002-03/msg00666.html (9,610 bytes)
8. Re: tie rods and gaiters (score: 1): Author: Bob Howard <mgbob@juno.com>; Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 07:32:48 -0500; To replace the gaiters, there is another way that does not require removing tie rod ends from the steering arms. It has been written up in the Moss catalogue too, sometime. In essence, though-- Mark; /html/mgs/2002-03/msg00673.html (8,558 bytes)
9. re: tie rods and gaiters (score: 1): Author: "Peter C." <nosimport@mailbag.com>; Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 08:47:04 -0600; Monte and list, After reading your original and the subsequent suggestions I have to chime in. The point that Moss is making has been misinterpreted I think. The hammer method of removing tie rods, b; /html/mgs/2002-03/msg00674.html (8,054 bytes)
10. RE: tie rods and gaiters (score: 1): Author: "Larry Hoy" <larryhoy@prodigy.net>; Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 08:35:04 -0700; Peter, makes an interesting point. Frankly I've never tried, or even heard of, the "squeeze the hole" technique. But his comments made me check out the Moss web site. I would recommend that everyone; /html/mgs/2002-03/msg00678.html (9,146 bytes)

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