The way the house is constructed I can't get a 4x8 sheet into the attic. I can do a 4x4 and with some effort a 2x8, but none of those are t&g. Any options out there besides using some kind of Simpson
Do you have a biscuit joiner? If not you now have a reason to own a biscuit joiner. Or glue/screw a backing piece under the unsupported areas. Eric Russell Mebane, NC
attic. I can Jim, I'm not sure if you are planning on making this a finished area or not. But I just finished doing the same thing and had the same problem. The access would only allow a 2'x8' piece
I would just put a board floor in laying the boards diagonal. Then if you want to finish the floor later on or when ever just get the 1/4 inch plywood and fasten it on top of the boards and then you
What spans do you have between joists, what thickness of plywood were you planning, and what type of use are you planning for the floor? At first I was wondering why you would need T&G, but the answe
Author: shannahquilts at gmail.com (Shannah Miller)
Date: Sun, 27 May 2012 21:40:07 -0700
Yeah, I totally agree: if you really want T&G, routing your own seems like a reasonable idea, especially if you can dedicate a router to this job for the duration.
16oc spans, 5/8 or 3/4 plywood/osb, storage of "stuff" i.e. dead loads. I like t&g so I know I'm not going to overload an edge accidentally, or if the next owner wants to use it for live loads and wo
I thought I had seen once a plywood attic floor panel that was made to go through a small access hole. But I found this: http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=10
accidentally, or if the Well I had 1/2" plywood wasn't happy with it, too flimsy. Felt like I was going to fall through. So I just set another piece of 1/2" plywood or press board on top. That helped
Was wondering about the insulation issue myself. Room mate & I had a rental house 20 years ago -- we wanted storage, but had limited space between the roof truss beams, and lots of blown in fiberglas
How about ripping the 4x8 sheets to match your beam spacing (eg 16") and then using a 2x4 stringer every 8' to support the edges? That's basically what I've been doing, although I'm lucky enough to
Author: pj_thomas at comcast.net (Peter J. Thomas)
Date: Mon, 28 May 2012 21:52:31 -0400
If you can get 4'x4' sheets up there, then cutting T&G 4x8 sheets in half is what I would do. Reassemble the two 4x4 into a 4x8 sheet with the cut over a joist where you really don't need the T&G. Th
The way the house is constructed I can't get a 4x8 sheet into the attic. I can do a 4x4 and with some effort a 2x8, but none of those are t&g. Any options out there besides using some kind of Simpson
Sounds like an opportunity for a new tool! -Darrell _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 A
Do you have a biscuit joiner? If not you now have a reason to own a biscuit joiner. Or glue/screw a backing piece under the unsupported areas. Eric Russell Mebane, NC The way the house is constructed
attic. I can Jim, I'm not sure if you are planning on making this a finished area or not. But I just finished doing the same thing and had the same problem. The access would only allow a 2'x8' piece
I would just put a board floor in laying the boards diagonal. Then if you want to finish the floor later on or when ever just get the 1/4 inch plywood and fasten it on top of the boards and then you
What spans do you have between joists, what thickness of plywood were you planning, and what type of use are you planning for the floor? At first I was wondering why you would need T&G, but the answe