I'll figure this out eventually
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From: Vsnively@aol.com
Full-name: Vsnively
Message-ID: <15e.e024327.2a1b82a6@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 06:59:50 EDT
Subject: Re: Differential oil seals - easy or hard
To: iiv000@mail.connect.more.net
MIME-Version: 1.0
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Charlie,
I've done a couple of these. I took mine to our shop and used/needed the
following--
arbor press
chain vise
1-1/16" (?) socket and breaker bar, 3/4" drive
torque wrench
spanner wrench
seal puller/installation tool
The hardest part of the inner shafts is pressing the shaft out of the
drive flange. I
destroyed a small arbor press. The pinion seal removal was straightforward,
except
the old seal was quite stubborn.
The replacement inner seals were neoprene, loaded-lip type. The pinion
seal has
a leather lip. Does anyone know of a neoprene-lipped pinion seal ? My leather
seal
is leaking again, and I looked at several cars at a local event this past
weekend---
they were all leaking from the pinion. There must be a better design.
Also, this is an excellent time to inspect the front differtential
mounting points,
particularly the passenger side. These are inherently weak. TRF offers a
gusset kit
that can be welded in to stiffen these areas. I have the history of my car,
and despite
its gentle life, the passenger side mounting point was cracked.
(I received factory service and parts catalogs with my car. They have
proven to be
invaluable resources, along with the 6-Pack support.)
Hope this helps. Does anyone have any pointers on the inner shaft
removal, and
a better pinion seal design ?
Vic Snively
'75 TR6
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