Zindel---The best insurance for not "running-on" is the proper working
of the anti-run-on valve. (Triumph must have thought this to be good
insurance, or they wouldn't have spent the money) It is also very
possible for engines to not run on without this valve in operation. It
seems to require that the carbs to be properly adjusted. Some books on
the subject of run-on suggest that it's a carb set "too lean" that
provokes the run on, tho it would appear contradictory.
Too high an 'idle' speed encourages run on, by producing more vacuum.
Again, a working anti-run-on valve stops the engine, no matter the idle
speed. (It can't run when there is a depression over the float bowls)
There is a '69 TR in my neighborhood that is a real pistol, when you
turn off the ignition key. A lot of the time, the owner has to put it in
gear and let out the clutch to kill the engine. Low idle speed, 92
octane and proper air/fuel mix only reduces the frequency of this
irritiation. There is no anti-run-on valve in the system, altho I've
been thinking of installing one in his manifold, as described in R.
William's TR6/250 Restoration Book.
Some engines can also continue to run when there is a current leak-back
thru the alternater wiring circuit, altho no dieseling usually takes
place. If you believe this started after you did the Pertonix and carb
work, these seem to be the logical places to retrace your steps.
Dick Taylor
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