I did switch to Silicone, DOT5, following the rebuild. I'm going to try
another bleed and see what I can do. Someone suggested "burping" the system
and that sounds like a good idea. I really want to stay with the DOT5 if I
can.
The Slave and Master cylinder looked really good...no grooves and VERY
clean. In fact, the MC looked as if it were new. I may try a new Slave if
this doesn't work as I hate DOT 4 with my clumsey fingers and a fairly new
paint job.
So, tomorrow, I'm back to burping and bleeding....thanks for the help..
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Grego Sanguinetti" <grego@accelerant.net>
Cc: <6pack@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2002 2:54 PM
Subject: Re: Fw: Rebuilt Master and Slave Clutch Cylinder
> Mark Martin wrote:
> >
> > I rebuilt my Master and Slave Cylinder after the Slave starting leaking.
The
> > rebuild went fine and we bled the system, or thought we did. Today,
when I
> > was driving, the pedal was very soft and went to the floor (no pressure)
when
> > I gently pressed on the pedal. When I give it a good push, the clutch
works
> > fine and you can feel the pressure from the pedal. Any idea why the
> > difference??? Do I need to bleed it again and if so, what's the trick
so the
> > clutch will bleed correctly when pressed "gently"?
>
> sounds like there is still air in the system.
> The TR6 clutch system really sucks and is a pain to bleed.
>
> One thing, are you using DOT5 (silcone) fluid?
> If so then just drain it and switch to Castrol DOT4.
> My system would just never bleed right with DOT5. I
> switched back to DOT4 and presto, done.
>
> Did you make certain that the slave cylinder bore was
> perfectly clear of any grooving? It is REALLY sensitive
> to imperfection. I am in the habbit of just replacing
> them instead of messing with a rebuild. They are so
> poorly sized to begin with.
>
> -grego
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