Don,
As long as you have full battery voltage at the solenoid with a wire of
sufficient current carrying capability (which you seem to have) there is
nothing more you can do with, or to, wiring to make the system work.
The next choice is pulling the starter and inspecting the pinion gear and
solenoid operation.
Recently when working on my now replaced Lucas starter I got too carried
away and removed the solenoid from the starter before analyzing what was
going on with the pinion drive. One of our fellow listers set me straight
to the fact that the solenoid has two coils, one to move the plunger and the
other to hold it in place. Due to the way the components are connected,
only one of the coils operates when the solenoid is separated from the
starter. This makes it seem as though a very possibly good solenoid isn't
capable of fully moving the plunger so that the high current starter switch
is closed.
Gary
'73
From: "Don Aldous" <don@aldous.ca>
To: "6pack" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 30, 2003 9:58 AM
Subject: Starter
> I recently installed a new ignition switch in the 6 and had to do some cut
> and splicing since the original switch for a 73 was not available. I was
> very careful to get the right wires connected and per Dan Marster's book.
> The car will start but only after the starter "grunts" on the first try.
It
> acts as if it is getting power but does not turn the engine over. Then
when
> I turn the ignition key again, she starts and runs well. The only change I
> made was to install a heavier gauge wire from ignition to solenoid. Is
this
> likely to be the solenoid that is weak? Any suggestions??
> Don
> CF10565
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