John---The main thing here is "FIT". It should be snug when pressing the
rotor down onto the distributor's cam shaft. Some aftermarket rotors
I've come across of the TR6 were really sloppy. The length of the brass
tip needs to be the right length, of course. I like to wipe both the end
of the rotor brass and the cap terminals with a marking pen. Run the
engine briefly, and examine these parts to be sure nothing touched.
Check again after several miles, if in doubt.
If there's a lot of wobble in the distributor shaft, even a proper rotor
can cut grooves into the cap tower terminals. If you are nursing a worn
distributor along, it may be necessary to file back the outer edge of
the rotor tip so it doesn't make contact.
Dick
From:
jmitch@snet.net(John Mitchell) Date: Sun, Aug 6, 2006, 10:44pm (PDT+3)
To: triumphs@autox.team.net, 6pack@autox.team.net (6 Pack) Subject:
Rotor Failure
After re-torqueing the head and adjusting the
valves, I put on a new distributor cap(Lucas) and rotor(Standard in the
red box). I then took my wife for a drive in the Litchfield hills of
Connecticut. I got about 50 miles out when the engine completely died. I
popped off the distributor cap to find the rotor had come apart and also
had broken the center carbon terminal of the cap.....
Now, my question is what kind of rotor seems to be working
reliably? I had Standard, an Intermotor, and a Lucas brand, and they all
look pretty much the same. Are they all being made by one company.
Thanks for any help. John Mitchell 76 TR6
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