Listers:
I just got my '76 back from a lengthy stay at the mechanical and body shops,
and am pleased to report that it is driving beautifully. There were a long
list of modifications including a clutch overhaul with an extra roll pin in
the fork and all the modifications needed to prevent "sticky clutch syndrome,"
as well as new, boxed differential pins, new throttle shaft bushings,
correct reinstallation of the driver's seat, and many other details. The body
man
repainted several panels and refit the passenger door so that it lines up
correctly. Summer is definitely not the driving season in Miami, so this was
the perfect time for the car to disappear for a while, but I am glad to get it
back.
My next project is the brakes. I have adjusted the rears and the handbrake,
but the car still doesn't brake as aggressively as I would like. The front
pads feel "hard" to me. I did check them, and there is plenty of pad left.
I also don't know how old the fluid is.
I have a Porsche race car and bleed my brakes frequently before track
events, using Ate Super Blue DOT 4 fluid. However, I have never bled drum
brakes
before. Questions:
1. To bleed the rears, do I assume correctly that I remove the rear
wheels, then drums, and that there is a bleed fitting on the wheel (brake)
cylinders similar to that on the front calipers? I have never actually taken
the
drums off. Anything special needed to get them off?
2. Should I use the Ate fluid, or should I stick with Castrol GT-LMA? I
like the Ate fluid because it is blue, and I will be able to tell when all
the current fluid is gone and replaced with the blue fluid.
3. Any special precautions needed for bleeding that might vary from my
Porsche? To this point, I haven't had any need for a vacuum bleeder due to
the
presence of a willing helper (my son). Will pumping the brake pedal damage
the master cylinder in this car?
4. Has any of you tried the EBC Green Stuff pads sold by TRF?
Thanks!
Michael
'76 Tahiti Blue
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