Michael---#2 should be easy to get, as the late model TR6 has adjustment
(shims) for setting camber. Toe is toe, but being a four wheel
independantly suspended car, the rear settings have to be considered
when doing the front.
#3 can also be achieved, altho more work is required when non-stock
springs are being used. The excess negative camber is the usual result
of the car sitting lower. The 2.4 deg. is quite a bit for a street car.
Most (I think) look better with about zero to one half deg. of negative
camber, with the car unoccupied. To get there from where you are will
require the combination of spring spacers and/or a different
configuration of brackets from trailing arm to frame.
It is good that they agreed to try to satisfy you with a return visit.
Dick
From:
SamuelsMA@aol.com
Listers:
My '76 has a lot of suspension modifications performed by the previous
owner. The car is lowered, has Koni's all around (rear tube shock
conversion), and has swaybars front and rear. The springs are
higher-rate than standard, with 1 coil removed.
I got the car back and it drives fine. However...... In the front, the
spec for camber is -0.8 to +1.3 degrees. They got -1.8 on the left front
and -1.5 on the right front. Toe was even and within spec, so that was
not an issue......
In the rear, the spec for camber is -0.5 to +1.5 degrees. They got -2.4
on the left and -1.7 on the right. They got 0.38 degrees for toe on the
left (spec is 0.0 to 0.12) and 0.17 on the right.
Questions:
1. What are appropriate specs for camber and toe front and rear for
my car, considering its modifications? I only have my race car to go by,
and it benefits from a lot of front and rear negative camber (2.0
degrees front, 2.5 degrees rear). That car actually is set with a little
bit of toe out in front to help it to turn in more readily. I don't
think those specs mean much for my current situation, given the fact
that I use the TR6 for gentle street driving, not track driving.
2. My Haynes manual lists only the following specs (unmodified car):
Front toe in 0 to 1/16 in, front caster 2.75 degrees +/- 0.5 degrees,
front camber -0.25 degrees +/- 0.5 degrees. There are no settings listed
for the rear.
3 Is it likely that we can achieve the desired settings (whatever
they are) given where I am starting here? The readings look like a mess
to me. The shop manager wants the car back on Monday so that he can try
to improve on the settings with some sort of shimming procedure.
Thanks!
Michael
'76 Tahiti blue
CF 57044U
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