Sam---You may have already done some of these, but I'll throw them in anyway...
Take both pads in hand and measure their thickness, to be sure the "fat one"
isn't out of spec. (They should both be the same). If one happens to be
thicker, put it on the side that "falls in".
Or, you might be able to gain some centering by putting an old pad on the side
that won't accept the new one. Pump up the brakes to see if you can now replace
the thin pad with the new one. You might have shifted the caliper in the
process.
Be sure the piston goes all the way back into the caliper. Or far enough so
that this is not the reason the pad won't go in.
See if you can rock the rotor, top to bottom on this side. (Wheel bearings
loose)?
I don't think shaving the fat pad would cause any problems, but I'd still want
to know why this would be necessary.
Dick
-----Original Message-----
From: Sam Clark
Sent: Thursday, November 3, 2011 10:14 PM
To: fot@autox.team.net, triumphs@autox.team.net, 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Brake Caliper Clearance
Tonight I was replacing my front brake pads to a higher performance version in
preparation for a track day and encountered problems with the RH side. I
attempted to do this in situ. LH side went well with the shims and pads going
in ok. LH side has been problematic. The outer pad falls in but the inner
one won't go in. Took the caliper off and manually pushed the pistons in.
That didn't help. Upon closer inspection, the caliper is not centered with
the rotor. Has anyone else had this problem? Should I shim the caliper to
gain clearance? It needs to be moved to the center of the car. This is on a
'72 TR6. Should I just have a brake shop take off .010 of the pad and be done
with it?
TIA
Sam Clark
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