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In what manner was it failing?=C2=A0 There are two main functions this swi=
tch does: 1) switch on the switched circuits to the ignition, wipers, heate=
r, turn signals, brake lights and such (everything on the white and green c=
ircuits) and 2) to energize the starter solenoid.=C2=A0 Is it one of these =
that is failing?
The brown wire is totally unassociated with the ignition switch.=C2=A0 The =
lights work the same with the switch ON or OFF.=C2=A0 If it is passing too =
much current to the switch then that same amount of current will be passing=
through the blue wires and they should also be burnt.=C2=A0 If not I suspe=
ct a dirty/poor contact especially if the wire is burnt near the connector.
Another thing to check is the state of the wire harness.=C2=A0 If it is loo=
se and rubbing against some of the sheet metal the abrasion could wear away=
the insulation and you may be getting intermittent short circuits to groun=
d.=C2=A0 Everything may seem to work OK but the short term current spikes c=
an cause incremental damage to the switch contacts over time.
The Red/White wire carries a significant level of current.=C2=A0 That wire =
is fairly large and they would not have used a large gauge wire if they did=
n't need it.=C2=A0 Later models (TR7's and TR8's) have a relay that is acti=
vated by the switch and the relay switches power to the starter solenoid.=
=C2=A0 But the TR6 ignition switch was designed to handle the current requi=
red by the starter solenoid and, indeed, the switches typically last a long=
time.
So, when you switch acts up what are the symptoms?
=20
Dave=20
=20
=20
-----Original Message-----
From: Jay Snavely <jaystr8@comcast.net>
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, Jul 7, 2022 5:23 pm
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Ignition Switch failures
<!--#yiv4829406809 _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv4829406809 #yiv4829406809 p=
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9MsoChpDefault {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;} _filtered {}#yiv4829406=
809 div.yiv4829406809WordSection1 {}-->I have just replaced the electrical =
switch part of the ignition switch on my 72 TR6, for the 2nd time in 2 year=
s.=C2=A0 Both switches were genuine Lucas parts.=C2=A0 LU39415=C2=A0 The ca=
r has been driven a couple hundred miles during this period.=C2=A0 I am won=
dering if there might be a situation with the car that is causing the failu=
res?=C2=A0 The wiring is pretty much stock, with a new harness 15 years ago=
.=C2=A0 I did add a voltmeter a few years ago, but retained the ammeter.=C2=
=A0 And added a circuit breaker in the headlight circuit. There was a burnt=
brown wire under the dash feeding power to the light switch, but I could n=
ot figure out if there was a problem or a dirty connector causing it to ove=
r heat. =C2=A0Is there any reason to add a relay?=C2=A0 There doesn=E2=80=
=99t seem to be that much current in the red/white wire going to the starte=
r solenoid.=C2=A0 Thanks._______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
------=_Part_3474780_858926818.1657282581258
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<div style=3D"color:black;font: 12pt Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
<div> <font size=3D"3">In what manner was it failing? There are two m=
ain functions this switch does: 1) switch on the switched circuits to the i=
gnition, wipers, heater, turn signals, brake lights and such (everything on=
the white and green circuits) and 2) to energize the starter solenoid.&nbs=
p; Is it one of these that is failing?</font></div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><font size=3D"3">The brown wire is totally unassociated with the ignit=
ion switch. The lights work the same with the switch ON or OFF. =
If it is passing too much current to the switch then that same amount of c=
urrent will be passing through the blue wires and they should also be burnt=
. If not I suspect a dirty/poor contact especially if the wire is bur=
nt near the connector.</font></div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><font size=3D"3">Another thing to check is the state of the wire harne=
ss. If it is loose and rubbing against some of the sheet metal the ab=
rasion could wear away the insulation and you may be getting intermittent s=
hort circuits to ground. Everything may seem to work OK but the short=
term current spikes can cause incremental damage to the switch contacts ov=
er time.</font></div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><font size=3D"3">The Red/White wire carries a significant level of cur=
rent. That wire is fairly large and they would not have used a large =
gauge wire if they didn't need it. Later models (TR7's and TR8's) hav=
e a relay that is activated by the switch and the relay switches power to t=
he starter solenoid. But the TR6 ignition switch was designed to hand=
le the current required by the starter solenoid and, indeed, the switches t=
ypically last a long time.</font></div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><font size=3D"3">So, when you switch acts up what are the symptoms?</f=
ont><br>
</div>
<div> <br>
</div>
<div style=3D"clear:both">
<div style=3D"color:black;font:12pt Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
<div style=3D"color:black;font:12pt Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
<div><font size=3D"4">Dave <br>
</font></div>
<div><span style=3D"font-size:10.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;color:black;"><=
br>
</span></div>
<br>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div> <br>
</div>
<div> <br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black"><font=
size=3D"2">-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Jay Snavely <jaystr8@comcast.net><br>
To: 6pack@autox.team.net<br>
Sent: Thu, Jul 7, 2022 5:23 pm<br>
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Ignition Switch failures<br>
<br>
<div id=3D"yiv4829406809"><style><!--
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<div>
<div class=3D"yiv4829406809WordSection1">
<div class=3D"yiv4829406809MsoNormal"><font size=3D"2" face=3D"Calibri"><sp=
an style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;">I have just replaced the electrical switch p=
art of the ignition switch on my 72 TR6, for the 2<sup>nd</sup> time in 2 y=
ears. Both switches were genuine Lucas parts. LU39415 The=
car has been driven a couple hundred miles during this period. I am =
wondering if there might be a situation with the car that is causing the fa=
ilures? The wiring is pretty much stock, with a new harness 15 years =
ago. I did add a voltmeter a few years ago, but retained the ammeter.=
And added a circuit breaker in the headlight circuit. There was a bu=
rnt brown wire under the dash feeding power to the light switch, but I coul=
d not figure out if there was a problem or a dirty connector causing it to =
over heat. Is there any reason to add a relay? There doesn=E2=
=80=99t seem to be that much current in the red/white wire going to the sta=
rter solenoid. Thanks.</span></font></div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
_______________________________________________<br>
nk">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive"; target=3D"_blank">http://w=
ww.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
<br>
</font></div>
</div>
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_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
6pack@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
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