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Sounds like your typical low quality, low cost sourced parts.=C2=A0 You co=
uld look for an OE part from a breakers yard.=C2=A0 That might be your best=
bet.=C2=A0 An alternative would be to use relays to carry the heavy curren=
t.=C2=A0 That way the low quality ignition switch would only have to carry =
the coil current and the the full current.=C2=A0 That's a crappy work aroun=
d but sometimes that is what it takes.
One of the suppliers once told me that they used to send a part to the Paci=
fic rim and say make one like this.=C2=A0 That didn't work out so well.=C2=
=A0 Now they have to generate a drawing with material specifications and al=
l sorts of things.=C2=A0 But you still need a QA department to inspect the =
incoming material and that costs money, too.=C2=A0 We don't have the volume=
to support this kind of support.=C2=A0 It's the nature of the hobby at thi=
s point in time.=C2=A0 If you can find genuine OE, go for it..
=20
Dave=20
=20
=20
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Perry <rgperry@earthlink.net>
To: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey@cs.com>; jaystr8@comcast.net; 6pack@autox.tea=
m.net
Sent: Sun, Jul 10, 2022 6:57 pm
Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Ignition Switch failures
Dave,=C2=A0The ignition switch would sometimes not provide enough power to =
the starter solenoid to start the starter then progressively got to the poi=
nt that the starter would not start.=C2=A0 I could jump the starter with a =
screwdriver and the starter would work.=C2=A0 I took apart the switch and f=
ound that the fiberboard plate that rotates was scored and offset from the =
contacts.=C2=A0 The contacts were dirty with pits and not smooth anymore.=
=C2=A0 Basically wore out.=C2=A0 The replacement switch worked for a short =
while but then started having the same problem.=C2=A0 I took the replacemen=
t switch apart and found that the brass contacts were not aligned very well=
.=C2=A0 The contacts were mating on a small patch on the side of the two co=
ntacts instead of full contact between the two contacts for the solenoid po=
wer wire.=C2=A0Regards,=C2=A0Robert-----Original Message-----
From: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey@cs.com>
Sent: Jul 8, 2022 6:50 AM
To: rgperry@earthlink.net <rgperry@earthlink.net>, jaystr8@comcast.net <jay=
str8@comcast.net>, 6pack@autox.team.net <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Ignition Switch failures=C2=A0Interesting.=C2=A0 I=
had a dodgy ignition switch in my 71 TR6.=C2=A0 I replaced it and it has b=
een fine ever since.=C2=A0 That was 25 years and some 50,000 miles ago.=C2=
=A0=20
=C2=A0What issues are you having?=C2=A0 Mine would spontaneously switch off=
the ignition.=C2=A0 A little wiggle would restore power.=C2=A0 I've had no=
issues since.=C2=A0Dave=20
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Perry <rgperry@earthlink.net>
To: Jay Snavely <jaystr8@comcast.net>; 6pack@autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, Jul 8, 2022 6:09 am
Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Ignition Switch failures
Jay,=C2=A0I have experienced this situation also.=C2=A0 I just keep a spare=
ignition switch in the trunk.=C2=A0 I have taken the switch apart before a=
nd cleaned the contacts.=C2=A0 This works for a little bit of time if the c=
ontacts are not too burnt, but I end up replacing the switch.=C2=A0Regards,=
=C2=A0Robert=C2=A0-----Original Message-----
From: Jay Snavely <jaystr8@comcast.net>
Sent: Jul 7, 2022 7:40 PM
To: <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Ignition Switch failures=C2=A0I have just replaced the=
electrical switch part of the ignition switch on my 72 TR6, for the 2nd ti=
me in 2 years.=C2=A0 Both switches were genuine Lucas parts.=C2=A0 LU39415=
=C2=A0 The car has been driven a couple hundred miles during this period.=
=C2=A0 I am wondering if there might be a situation with the car that is ca=
using the failures?=C2=A0 The wiring is pretty much stock, with a new harne=
ss 15 years ago.=C2=A0 I did add a voltmeter a few years ago, but retained =
the ammeter.=C2=A0 And added a circuit breaker in the headlight circuit. Th=
ere was a burnt brown wire under the dash feeding power to the light switch=
, but I could not figure out if there was a problem or a dirty connector ca=
using it to over heat. =C2=A0Is there any reason to add a relay?=C2=A0 Ther=
e doesn=E2=80=99t seem to be that much current in the red/white wire going =
to the starter solenoid.=C2=A0 Thanks.=C2=A0_______________________________=
________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
6pack@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
@cs.com
=C2=A0
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<div style=3D"color:black;font: 12pt Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
<div> <font size=3D"3">Sounds like your typical low quality, low cost sourc=
ed parts. You could look for an OE part from a breakers yard. T=
hat might be your best bet. An alternative would be to use relays to =
carry the heavy current. That way the low quality ignition switch wou=
ld only have to carry the coil current and the the full current. That=
's a crappy work around but sometimes that is what it takes.</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"3"><br>
</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"3">One of the suppliers once told me that they used to s=
end a part to the Pacific rim and say make one like this. That didn't=
work out so well. Now they have to generate a drawing with material =
specifications and all sorts of things. But you still need a QA depar=
tment to inspect the incoming material and that costs money, too. We =
don't have the volume to support this kind of support. It's the natur=
e of the hobby at this point in time. If you can find genuine OE, go =
for it..<br>
</font></div>
<div> <br>
</div>
<div style=3D"clear:both">
<div style=3D"color:black;font:12pt Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
<div style=3D"color:black;font:12pt Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
<div><font size=3D"4">Dave <br>
</font></div>
<div><span style=3D"font-size:10.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;color:black;"><=
br>
</span></div>
<br>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div> <br>
</div>
<div> <br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black"><font=
size=3D"2">-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Robert Perry <rgperry@earthlink.net><br>
To: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey@cs.com>; jaystr8@comcast.net; 6pack@aut=
ox.team.net<br>
Sent: Sun, Jul 10, 2022 6:57 pm<br>
Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Ignition Switch failures<br>
<br>
<div id=3D"yiv5067006115">
<div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family:arial, sans-serif;font-size:12=
pt;">
<div style=3D"margin:0;line-height:1.0;">Dave,</div>
<div style=3D"margin:0;line-height:1.0;"> </div>
<div style=3D"margin:0;line-height:1.0;">The ignition switch would sometime=
s not provide enough power to the starter solenoid to start the starter th=
en progressively got to the point that the starter would not start. I=
could jump the starter with a screwdriver and the starter would work. =
; I took apart the switch and found that the fiberboard plate that rotates =
was scored and offset from the contacts. The contacts were dirty with=
pits and not smooth anymore. Basically wore out. The replaceme=
nt switch worked for a short while but then started having the same problem=
. I took the replacement switch apart and found that the brass contac=
ts were not aligned very well. The contacts were mating on a small pa=
tch on the side of the two contacts instead of full contact between the two=
contacts for the solenoid power wire.</div>
<div style=3D"margin:0;line-height:1.0;"> </div>
<div style=3D"margin:0;line-height:1.0;">Regards,</div>
<div style=3D"margin:0;line-height:1.0;"> </div>
<div style=3D"margin:0;line-height:1.0;">Robert</div>
</div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family:arial, sans-serif;font-size:12=
pt;"></div>
<div id=3D"yiv5067006115yqt36776" class=3D"yiv5067006115yqt0370517044">
<div style=3D"border-left:1px solid #aaa;padding:10px 0 10px 15px;margin:0;=
" class=3D"yiv5067006115elnk-inline-message-container">
<div>-----Original Message-----<br clear=3D"none">From: DAVID MASSEY <da=
ve1massey@cs.com><br clear=3D"none">Sent: Jul 8, 2022 6:50 AM<br clear=
=3D"none">To: rgperry@earthlink.net <rgperry@earthlink.net>, jaystr8@=
comcast.net <jaystr8@comcast.net>, 6pack@autox.team.net <6pack@aut=
ox.team.net><br clear=3D"none">Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Ignition Switch =
failures</div>
<div style=3D"margin:0;line-height:1.0;"> </div>
<div style=3D"color:black;font:12pt Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
<div><span style=3D"font-size:medium;">Interesting. I had a dodgy ign=
ition switch in my 71 TR6. I replaced it and it has been fine ever si=
nce. That was 25 years and some 50,000 miles ago. <br clear=3D"=
none"></span></div>
<div> </div>
<div><span style=3D"font-size:medium;">What issues are you having? Mi=
ne would spontaneously switch off the ignition. A little wiggle would=
restore power. I've had no issues since.</span></div>
<div> </div>
<div style=3D"clear:both;">
<div style=3D"color:black;font:12pt Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
<div style=3D"color:black;font:12pt Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
<div><span style=3D"font-size:large;">Dave <br clear=3D"none"></span></div>
<div><span style=3D"font-size:10.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;color:black;">&=
nbsp;</span></div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div> </div>
<div> </div>
<div style=3D"font-family:arial, helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black;"><sp=
an style=3D"font-size:small;"><span style=3D"font-size:small;">-----Origina=
l Message-----<br clear=3D"none">From: Robert Perry <rgperry@earthlink.n=
et><br clear=3D"none">To: Jay Snavely <jaystr8@comcast.net>; 6pack=
@autox.team.net<br clear=3D"none">Sent: Fri, Jul 8, 2022 6:09 am<br clear=
=3D"none">Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Ignition Switch failures<br clear=3D"non=
e"><br clear=3D"none"></span></span>
<div id=3D"yiv5067006115">
<div>
<div style=3D"color:#000000;font-family:arial, sans-serif;font-size:12pt;">
<div style=3D"margin:0;line-height:1.0;">Jay,</div>
<div style=3D"margin:0;line-height:1.0;"> </div>
<div style=3D"margin:0;line-height:1.0;">I have experienced this situation =
also. I just keep a spare ignition switch in the trunk. I have =
taken the switch apart before and cleaned the contacts. This works fo=
r a little bit of time if the contacts are not too burnt, but I end up repl=
acing the switch.</div>
<div style=3D"margin:0;line-height:1.0;"> </div>
<div style=3D"margin:0;line-height:1.0;">Regards,</div>
<div style=3D"margin:0;line-height:1.0;"> </div>
<div style=3D"margin:0;line-height:1.0;">Robert</div>
</div>
<div style=3D"color:#000000;font-family:arial, sans-serif;font-size:12pt;">=
</div>
<div id=3D"yiv5067006115yqt59378" class=3D"yiv5067006115yqt5972763636">
<div style=3D"border-left:1px solid #aaa;padding:10px 0 10px 15px;margin:0;=
" class=3D"yiv5067006115elnk-inline-message-container">
<div>-----Original Message-----<br clear=3D"none">From: Jay Snavely <jay=
str8@comcast.net><br clear=3D"none">Sent: Jul 7, 2022 7:40 PM<br clear=
=3D"none">To: <6pack@autox.team.net><br clear=3D"none">Subject: [6pac=
k] TR6 Ignition Switch failures</div>
<div style=3D"margin:0;line-height:1.0;"> </div>
<div class=3D"yiv5067006115WordSection1">
<div class=3D"yiv5067006115MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:Calibri;fo=
nt-size:small;"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;">I have just replaced the =
electrical switch part of the ignition switch on my 72 TR6, for the 2<sup>n=
d</sup> time in 2 years. Both switches were genuine Lucas parts. =
; LU39415 The car has been driven a couple hundred miles during this =
period. I am wondering if there might be a situation with the car tha=
t is causing the failures? The wiring is pretty much stock, with a ne=
w harness 15 years ago. I did add a voltmeter a few years ago, but re=
tained the ammeter. And added a circuit breaker in the headlight circ=
uit. There was a burnt brown wire under the dash feeding power to the light=
switch, but I could not figure out if there was a problem or a dirty conne=
ctor causing it to over heat. Is there any reason to add a relay?&nbs=
p; There doesn=E2=80=99t seem to be that much current in the red/white wire=
going to the starter solenoid. Thanks.</span></span></div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div style=3D"margin:0;line-height:1.0;"> </div>
</div>
</div>
<div id=3D"yiv5067006115yqt51550" class=3D"yiv5067006115yqt5972763636">____=
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