Gerald,
Hi, I'm running -2.5 on my Neon with g-force tires, but I used to run
R1's with -2.5, which worked well. I suspect you are getting more tire-spin
because you are cornering much harder. This puts less weight on the inside
tire making it easier to spin. You can tune the care some, but driving
technique has a lot to do with it too (more than setup in my opinion).
SETUP: Some of the ACR Neon's have the stock smaller front sway bar on
so the inside tire gets a little better traction. If you don't have an ACR
this won't help much. Folks also install adjustable Koni struts to help
with this too (although I run the stock Arvin struts still) and use some
static toe-out in the front.
DRIVING STYLE: When corning at or near the limit you can't feed
throttle unless you unwind the wheel, even a little bit, otherwise you get
wheel-spin. Try to start unwinding at the apex and simultaneously feeding
in throttle. Experiment with how quickly to roll into the throttle so you
don't get wheel-spin. At different turns the rate which you roll on
throttle will be related to the rate you can unwind the wheel. Try this on
the street (not at speed, just the technique), instead of waiting for the
turn to be completed then unwinding the wheel, start slowly and continuously
unwinding at about midpoint of the turn, this can be surprising. You may
feel you'll go too wide, but will be surprised where you actually end up.
This will also lead to late apexing discussions etc. I'm sure someone will
jump in with info on that.
All of this is related to how you entered the turn. If you blast in and
are throttle braking and at the limit barely able to stay on course during
turn exit, you need to slow down the entry, hence the old saying go in slow
and out fast.
With the Neon a typical turn is to start turn-in (maybe a little early)
while rolling out of the throttle until you are fully off the throttle
before the apex. If this is too fast you may have to start rolling out
earlier. If you have to brake into the turn you roll off the brake as you
start turning, just like you did the throttle.
I used to go way in deep, jump on the brakes to get maximum braking,
then roll-off while turning in. Turns out this is way to much to deal with
when trying to slow from 55 to maybe 50, you may be better off rolling off
and letting the turned front wheels slow you (this may raise some serious
discussion).
The most important thing is, start unwinding the wheel and feeding in
the throttle, maintaining traction generating exit speed, use the full
course width on exit (entry too), this will help.
Let me (us) know how it goes, let the times be the judge not how you
think the run went, sometimes it's surprising how different they can be.
----- Original Message -----
From: Gerald Chen <gerald@infoserve.net>
To: <autox@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 17, 1999 4:57 AM
Subject: Camber Question
>
> Is there an ideal degree of negative camber for autox? Right now, I am at
> -2 degrees with some crash bolts. I'm also racing on BFG R1's, which by my
> understanding of their sidewall design also gives me another -2 degrees or
> so. In total, I should have around -4 degrees. I've noticed that coming
> out of turns, I get more wheelspin than I did with my street tires - could
> this be due to all the camber I'm running? BTW, the car is a 95 Neon.
>
> Any input would be appreciated,
>
> Gerald
>
>
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