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Re: '75 Bricklin

To: Dave Cairns <dexin@idirect.com>, bricklin@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: '75 Bricklin
From: jblair@exis.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 1997 17:19:55 -0500
At 03:15 PM 3/6/97 -0500, Dave Cairns wrote:

> Ok people I have found a '75 Bricklin for Sale near me.. (funny how
> I was looking all over North Amarica and found one 20 min from my
> house..)  And I would like to know what you fellows would pay for
> it.. It's a 75 and both of the door skins are off.. (there but
> hanging my the mirrors) And the seats are trashed.. Apprently it 
> still runs but has not had the doors converted over to air.. It's 
> Safty Green.. And Well it's in really bad shape.. Well tell me what
> you think.. (I don't know the VIN number..)

Dave,

  Which would you rather do, work on the car, or spend a lot of money?

  The door skins being off is probably a blessing in disguise.  I
mentioned in a previous post (to you) about the reinforcement in the
doors.  You can examine it and see if it is there.  If not PUT IT IN!
Now you can rework the doors.  Check the bottom of the door frame for
rust.  If any it will have to be fixed but not difficult.  I'd suggest
that you wire brush (with a 10,000 rpm 4" grinder & an knotted wire
wheel) or sand blast the inside of the door. (take everything out
first.  Then paint the entire inside with POR-15.

The cost of the air door modification is about $600.  Plus Terry has
come out with a new latch solenoid (air operated) at $100 a peace
1 req. per door).

How is the fit of the rear hatch and hood?  If severly warped, you
will probably have to replace them (appox $400 & $550 respectively)

How is the carpets?  You can always throw something in there until
you can afford to get new (about $400).

Here is the real killer!  How much was it driven in the winter months?
Try to get the car in the air (on a lift preferably).  Check the
sheet metal at the front outside and back bottom inside of the front fender
wells for rust.  The rear is a reinforcement plate and prone to rust.  Check
the shock towers for rust as they hold the front 
suspension.  There is a main chassis member  that runs along the 
outside of the chassis under the black valances under the doors.  Get 
a light and mirror and try to see up on top of these members.  Again 
reinforcement plates which rust badly.

Also check the  xmission cross brace for rust.  Mine was completely
gone!  If there is real signs of rust there - How much work do you want to
do?  To fix these areas the body should come off the chassis.

If there is no signs of rust this is a big plus!!!

The seats are not real problem.  If the seats are original, they can
be recovered unless they have sustained severe water damage, in which
case the metal seat frames rust out.  Also check the seat slides.
Finding the replacement seats is no real problem.  Suggestion are
Fiero or Plymouth Omni (about $40 to $60 a pair - but will have to
be reupholtered), also late model Honda but they cost more (about
$150 a pair). 

Are the interior door panels intact, interior 1/4 panels covers,
rear panel cover intact?  Again these items are available but at a
price.

I paid $3,000 for my car missing the entire interior except the
dash board.  It is also missing the entire air manifold and rams,
door skins and A pillar covers (both inside and out).

So I'd say anything from about $1,500 to $4,000 depending on the
answers to the above questions.

John
John T. Blair  WA4OHZ          email:  jblair@exis.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget  65 Morgan 4/4 Series V
     75 Bricklin SV1   77 Spitfire

The one with the most toys, wins!


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