> -----Original Message-----
> From: Olson, Scott [SMTP:scottolson@cascon.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, March 31, 1998 3:31 PM
> To: 'K M'; Bricklin@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: Finally got my window to work -- for free
>
[Michael Mitchell] ......... Stuff removed
> 5) Door latch solenoids: All I have is the interoir handle. All
> other latch equiptment is gone. The latches, solenoid, and latch
> plate
> don't exist. I need to know what I need to buy and how it works. Do
> the solenoids actuate both electronically and via the manual unlatch.
> Does the door handle send a signal that can be used to open the door?
>
[Michael Mitchell] If you have hydraulics, the latches are not
only not needed (there's enough pressure to hold the doors down), but
dangerous to the doors. The solenoids have a bad habit of not releasing,
and the hydraulics are strong enough to severely bend the door should
that occur. I suggest that you check with Terry Tanner or Bob Hoffman
about getting the proper latches if you are using air, though. It will
be a necessity. Real problem here is if you've lost the plate the latch
attaches to (on the door sill). It's a real pain to get it back to where
it belongs!
> 6) Is it just me or is the Bricklin one of the worst cars to be in
> if you start to sink in water. I don't plan on doing this, but has
> anyone tried fitting into the car through the windows?
>
[Michael Mitchell] Heh, heh! I ran hydraulics for a few years.
I can't tell you how often I've slid in and out of the driver's door
windows! It's not comfortable, but possible! If you ever sink in water,
though, I'd bet the rear window would pop out easier. (An old warning
that I vividly remember is not to drive the Brick over 100 MPH with the
windows down .... )
> Thanks for any help.
>
> -scottolson@writeme.com
>
> I intend on having Terry fix the doors, whatever window problems
> I have etc... but I need to be able to roll the window down before
> that
> time.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: K M [SMTP:symbiotic@hotmail.com]
> > Sent: Tuesday, March 31, 1998 1:52 PM
> > To: Bricklin@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Finally got my window to work -- for free
> >
> > I had a very pleasant experience at National Glass on South Van Ness
> > in
> > San Francisco. I was having considerable problems using the "new"
> > Tanner window system that consists of a channel, some cork and felt,
> > and
> > some glue. I glued it, installed it, and it pulled out of the new
> > channel. I reglued it and the same thing happened. I redid it with
> > RTV
> > silicone with the same result. I went to the glass shop and the guy
>
> > looked at everything, cut the old stuff off the window (this had
> > remained glued all along), put new felt-cork (I don't know why it's
> > called this because it seems more like a rubber compound) in the
> > channel, said that it was too loose and should not have to be glued,
>
> > doubled up on the cork stuff, got out a big mallet and, wham, wham,
> > put
> > that window in its place. The biggest surprise was that he didn't
> > want
> > me to pay anything for the work (I gave the guy 9 dollars anyway).
> So
> >
> > far, it seems fine. I wanted to cant the window vis a vis the
> channel
> >
> > to make the bend a little more gradual but we didn't do it that time
>
> > (Tanner's instructions don't mention this). Anyway, I now know the
> > windows fairly well so if anyone has any questions, write away (I
> know
> >
> > the air door system too). KIm
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