My brother got me a mini-charger for batteries that sit alot. This is
not to correct a short or something, but to assist a non-regular use
battery. It is safe to leave connected and trickle charge constantly.
Very low amps - I can find out the specs if anyone is interested. I
think they are around $25. It fixed my battery-dying repetition. Let
me know if anyone wants some info on one.
Amo
#1207
Early, Stephen wrote:
>Dave,
>
>It is not normal. After starting the car or turning on the headlights you
>should get a definite charge indication on the ammeter. Here's a simple test.
> With the car running and all electrical accessories turned off, put a volt
>meter on the battery terminals. You should get a reading in the range of
>13.0v to 14.8v. Now turn the headlights on and check the reading. It will be
>lower than without headlights but should not be dropping below 13.0v. My
>guess is you will get a reading of below 13.0v. There are a few possible
>causes.
>
>Is the alternator belt in place and tight enough? Are your battery
>connections clean and tight? If so the problem is most likely the alternator
>or the regulator. On my '74 the regulator is under the hood on the passenger
>fender well near the fire wall. If you have an old Chilton book (or
>equivalent) look up and perform the simple test to determine if the problem is
>the regulator or the alternator. If not, the regulator is pretty easy and
>inexpensive to replace.
>
>If the problem is the alternator it is most likely bad diodes. Typically, the
>diodes fail slowly and not all at once. Often, they act up when hot but then
>behave normally when they cool down. This will create a condition where the
>alternator will charge the battery when the car is cold but as it gets hotter
>it will stop working. It can also create a condition where the alternator
>will charge the battery very slowly (i.e. at a low voltage that is higher than
>12.0v) when there is little load but as load increases the battery discharges.
>
>It's fairly simple to replace the alternator. If you want to save some money
>or if you want to keep things original like I do, you can have the diodes
>replaced. That allows you to keep your alternator. Replacing diodes is not
>difficult if you are reasonably adept at electrical work and soldering. If
>not, an alternator shop can do it for you. Diode packs run about $15.
>
>
>Stephen I. Early
>Technology Sector
>MBNA America
>800.441.7048 x74788
>stephen.early@mbna.com
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-bricklin@autox.team.net
>[mailto:owner-bricklin@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of David Dal Bianco
>Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2005 10:06 PM
>To: Bricklin Club
>Subject: Bricklin Discharging
>
>
>I am currently experiencing a discharge problem with my Bricklin. I noticed
>that when I am running the car without the headlights, I get a normal reading
>(0) or a charging reading on my ammeter on the car's dash. When I put the
>front headlights on, I get a discharge reading on the dash gauge. This
>happens at idle or at any speeds. Is this normal with the Bricklin? If not,
>is my alternator not putting out enough charge? Does anyone have any ideas on
>this problem?
>Thanks,
>Dave 0016
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