If you live near Michigan or Virginia get in touch with either Bob Hoffman
(MI) or Terry Tanner (VA), They can go over a prospective car for you, let
you know what is wrong and right and how much it will cost to fix. They may
even know of a car for sale that meets your needs. As far as I can tell you
are looking for a car that needs very little to no work.
The only disadvantages to the 74's are they used different brakes than the
later 75's and rotors cost a bit more and some of the small parts are
getting hard to find. The amc 360 is a good motor but some parts are
starting to become hard to find for them since they have been out of
production for a long time. There are some aftermarket pieces for them and
they have a loyal following from the amc crowd. there are more parts
available for the 351 Windsor because it was in production into the 90's
Frame rust is an issue pay particular attention the torque box areas and the
rear upper shock mounts, These tend to be the areas that fail first. the
transmission crossmember have been know to have issues as well but all I
have seen had so much oil leaked on then they were near perfect.
Bricklins have wavy bodies that don't fit real well by today's standards,
That is not a dig that is the truth. don't be turned off if the fit and
finish is not that of a new car, it won't be. the acrylic panels do tend to
warp and check and small stress fractures develop over time. I prefer
original acrylic cars to painted cars but I do have both and the value
difference is minimal to most people as both have advantages, A painted
aftermarket body will look nicer and not check like an acrylic one but it is
not "original".Interior condition is very important, the drivers door panel
is very hard to get (read expensive), seats have been a touchy point. if
warped hood and or hatch are a turn off for you and a particular car then it
may be best to pass on that car as NOS acrylic hoods are costly and probably
wont match due to sun fade of the panels. if you don't mind paint then paint
is an option. remember these cars are probably the most WOW per dollar of
any car on the road.
Door fit isn't all that great BUT they should be even with the body at
least, The gaps tended to be very wide by today's standard but the should
be flush and level or they will need to be re-worked.
as I always recommend ONLY buy a car that is within your ability to fix, If
you cant change a light bulb them make sure the car you buy doesn't have so
much as a burned out light not a basket case. The cars are relatively easy
to work on a and there is a great community willing to give advice and help.
Interior condition is very important, the drivers door panel is very hard to
get (read expensive), seats have been a touchy point.
> I'd like
> to hear any recommendations that you folks might wish to offer, such as
> what to look
> for -- or look out for -- and advantages/disadvantages of both model