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Studs, Clutches, Brakes

To: british-cars@Alliant.COM
Subject: Studs, Clutches, Brakes
From: mit-eddie!tcgould.TN.CORNELL.EDU!garnett@EDDIE.MIT.EDU (Roger Garnett)
Date: Tue, 20 Mar 90 08:56:24 EST
Well, I don't think this one made it out last week...
1) Sheared studs- EDM is one of the best ways to go. It uses a brass
  electrode, (any piece of brass- ie a rod, or peice of sheet, shaped to
  what you want to cut) and while slow, is pretty accurate. 
  My friend with the machine shop has a stationary unit, and it can cut
  some pretty hard stuff. You can "bore" out a tap or stud , and not touch
  the threads, leaving only a "ribbon" of threads to be peeled away. The
  stationary unit is big enough to fit a head into. There are some outfits
  in city-type areas that offer portable "tap removal". Check the yellow
  pages, ask a couple of good machine shops. Better to pay the $$ to have it
  done right, than mung the head. 

2) Stuck clutches- If your car is stored where there is any moisture, there is
        potential for the clutch disk to become stuck to the flywheel,
        or the pressure plate. One way to avoid this would be to block
        the clutch pedal, (mechanical linkage) or the release arm (hydraulic
        systems don't really like being left pressurized). The problem
        here is that you are now leaving the pressure plate springs under
        compression. Anyone got evidence as to which is worse?
To unstick a frozen clutch, (or pilot shaft), if you're lucky:
        -Start the car, in neutral. Warm it up. Make sure you have a good,
        well charged battery. The car needs to be able to start easily.
        -Shut down. Put it in 1st gear. Start it up. Floor the clutch, and
        point for a flat field, or empty road. 
        -Alternatly, hit the gas hard, break hard, leaving your foot on the
        clutch. Continue until it frees!
I've had to perform this service a couple of times, what fun! (Be careful)
Each time, we got to add to the excitement, due to weak batteries. This
required a running jumper cable attendant, to disconnect the leads just
before the car got too far. :-O

3) Another Castrol vs. Silicone brake fluid comment: If you have only
   drum brakes, (early A's, Spridgets, other older cars) you should be less
   prone to brake fluid heating/bubbling, than if you have disks. (calipers
   seat directly against the hot pads, where a cylinder only pushes against
   the edges of the shoes) Therefore, you should be able to use silicone
   with no problems. (an autocross car might be an exception- Anyone 
   autocross a car with 4 wheel drum brakes?)
   ________
  /___  _  \        Roger Garnett           (garnett@tcgould.TN.CORNELL.EDU)
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| |___||  _  |      3 Warren Hall            | South Lansing Centre For
| | \  |   | |      Cornell University       | Wayward Sports Cars
 \|  \ |__/ /       Ithaca, N.Y. 14853       | (607) 533-7735
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