> From: gerry@speedy.att.com:
>
> The gremlins have struck !!!!
>
> Today, I found that when I turned the ignition, I blew a fuse.
>
> [...]
>
> So just as an experiment, I shorted the fuse connections with
> a short piece of wire, and hey presto everything works (not a big
> surprise !!!). What did surprise me, was the wire I used to short the
> fuse out was not getting hot, not even mildly warm. Yet every
> fuse I install blows (rated at 50 A circuit). I would
> expected that if there is a short somewhere, [...]
Chances are good that you have an intermittent short, so that your wire
"fuse" is intermittently carrying a lot of current. Do not leave it like
this! It will eventually become "less intermittent" enough to cause a
melt-down! Intermittents like this are difficult to find - I take an
ohm meter from the "fused" end of the fuse to ground and then wiggle and
shake everything until I've isolated the short - which can take quite a
bit of doing sometimes, but it's doable.
> My next question aslso concerns electrics :
> On the Midget (1500), the alterbnator has 3 wires coming from it
>
> 1 - very thick brown
> 1 - very thin brown
> 1 - very thin brown/yellow
>
> The thick brown goes to the starter relay, but where do the
> other 2 wires go to ? The brown/yellow goes to the charging
> light (I think), the thin brown I think goes to the starter
> relay (hot 12V ???) Can anybody shed some light ?
The heavy wire go to the battery "hot" terminal, and is the output of
the stator windings and diodes. (The "other" connection is through
the case to the battery "earth" terminal.) The other two wires are
the two ends of the rotor ("field") winding, through the brushes. One
of these wires goes to the battery "hot" lead through the ingition
switch (ON only when the engine running or starting), the other lead
goes to the regulator. Regulating the field current is how battery
charging is done. This lead may also be connected to one end of the
"charge" idiot light as well, depending on the regulator.
Good luck!
Pat Vilbrandt John Fluke Mfg. Co., Inc. Everett, Washington USA
UUCP: pwv@tc.fluke.COM or: { uunet, uw-beaver, sun, microsoft }!fluke!pwv
ARPA: fluke!pwv@uw-beaver.ARPA
> I have re-wried the whole car, making up my own harness as
> I go along, the reason being that every circuit is independant,
> each is fused (12 fuses), and each circuit has an dependant earth.
> I have also removed all useless wiring, eg seat belt warning,
> door open warning, etc etc
>
>
> The ignition switch is no longer installed, and all circuits
> are controlled by independant toggle switches which function
> on their own, with the ignition switched on or off.
>
> The last obstacle is to wire the alternator, so if anybody
> can show me how this should be wired , I'd appreciate it. the
> Haynes manual is of no use to me now, because my wiring does
> ressemble it at all
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