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HOT HEAD

To: british-cars@autox.team.net
Subject: HOT HEAD
From: bchamp@ccmail.monsanto.com
Date: Mon, 2 Aug 93 18:09:13 -0500



Have I finally found out why my '69 MGB seems to run hot?  Since early spring, 

I have had a number of problems with the cooling system, which has severly 

effecting the reliability (what you say? I expected reliability?)  Although I 

have had no overheating problems for the last six years, this year it overheats 

at the slightest provocation, particularly heavy traffic on a hot summer day.  

I have driven it so as to avoid boiling over - carry extra coolant, avoid 

traffic, stop if it gets to hot.  But I'm tired of watching the gauge!  The 

problems and repairs were as follows:  



 1) Early in the year, I did a lot of gauge watching, so I replaced and 

calibrated the thermo sending unit.  Using a digital thermometer, I calibrated 

the dash gauge.  Mine has no temperature values, just C, N and H.  When the 

gauge is exactly pointing down (middle of the N), the temperature of the 

coolant entering the radiator is 180 F.  About two-thirds of the way across the 

dial is 200 F.  If it reaches the white bar of the H, it is above boiling or 

greater than 212.  When I'm moving on the road, mine runs at about 200 F.  If I 

get stuck in traffic, it heads for the hot zone and I shut it off and wait.  

Now I know how the gauge works and that the car really does run hot.  



2)  OK, this is the easy one.  Change the thermostat, drive without one, drive 

with the summer model (160 F).  I've tried them all - still runs too hot.



3) While exiting an expressway (to avoid a traffic jam) the radiator developed 

an incredible leak - the engine lost coolant, boiled over and generally 

overheated.  I had the radiator repaired, put in a new water pump, hoses, etc.  

At this point, the cooling system holds coolant for the first time in years!  

And, according to my calibrated gauge it still runs hot!



4) I run a compression check every fall and last year it was fine.  Last night 

I checked it out and it looks like trouble:  180, 105, 160, 165.  Adding oil to 

the bad cylinder gave no change in the values.  



Will one low cylinder cause it to run hot?  Whats the net wisdom concerning the 

best approach to fixing this?  Am I crazy to keep driving it?  Should I replace 

all the valves in the head? or is it just a blown head gasket?



Avoiding Traffic

Bruce Hamper

bchamp@ccmail.monsanto.com



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