Say you are interested in buying an old British car. How would
members of this group conduct their pre-purchase inspection? Some
things I might do: check out a few examples well out of your price
range. These are likely to be as near complete and original as they
come. Pretend you are interested in buying--this will persuade the
seller to allow you to grope about in the cockpit and under the bonnet
and boot; maybe even get a test drive. Pay attention to the trim,
finish and documentation--you need to convince the seller that you are
a serious buyer (er... I mean investor) before you take his near
concours vehicle out for a spin. Next, check out something you can
afford. You will have a feeling that something is wrong. Identify the
discrepancies and keep a mental note of the cost to rectify (get a
mail order catalog for the model that you're interested in--some are
free, check Phil Ethier's vendor list or Hemmings). I would try to
get a car near 100% complete and _correct_. Some would substitute
original for correct, but demanding matching numbers is a bit too
anal, even for me. No one demands the original brake pads or spark
plugs, and I believe the point of a car is to use it. So what if
someone used up the motor and replaced it? Substitution is something
else. I believe some of these substitutions to be good, but once you
alter the car only those with your particular aesthetic bent will
appreciate your mods. One nice example that comes to mind is the XK's
Unlimited series I/III -- short wheelbase V12 roadster with covered
headlights (but then I'm partial to the series I look and the V12
sound). Most agree that the factory paradigm is the definitive
yardstick.
Try to extract a history from the seller. Was maintenance
religiously performed? Who did the engine rebuild? How many layers
of paint? Where was the car stored? How hard was it driven (I have
to admit a soft spot for cars that have had a hard life, and would
give them all a home if I could). Probably doesn't matter what you
ask; the more the seller knows, the more assured you can be that he
was concerned about the quality of care his car received.
Look at everything. Ask about all the shiny new parts you see.
"Bosch Platinum plugs. Nice. What are they selling for these days.
Really? Is that price still good?" You need to make a mental note of
repairs performed to impress the buyer. Methodically inspect
everything you can easily get to. Make a checklist if you must. I
would walk about the car, say clockwise starting from the front. Peel
back the rubber bits and look at the paint underneath. If Earl
Schives painted the car, the color stops at the rubber. Try to find
where the Bondo is. Run your hand along the sheetmetal; Bondo areas
feel warmer to the touch. Try rapping on the body with your knuckles;
bondo has a duller sound. Surprisingly, you can often feel small
dents easier than you can see them. Feel all the suspect areas. On
the E-type, this means the underside of the bonnet. The previous
owner of my XKE fancied himself a sculptor, and this is where he did
his handiwork. Bounce each of the four corners as hard as you can and
watch the oscillation. Damping should be slightly less than critical
when the body is dropping, much less than critical when rising. That
is, push the body down and it should pop up and then fall to its
equilibrium position; pull the body up, and it should pretty much
settle into equilibrium without oscillating. Listen to the
suspension, too. Things are pretty far gone when they become audible.
Try to excite the normal mode in yaw. Slip in behind the wheel,
wiggle it to determine play and run the transmission through its gears
(try not to bounce in the seat and make that motor noise with your
tongue and lips). Move the wheel lock to lock. Test the electrical
devices. Look for wear on parts you are certain are original (maybe
the accelerator pedal or linkage). Try to reconcile that wear with the
odometer -- think about whether you want to add 100,000 miles. Try
the clutch and brakes, adjust the seat. Sit down in every seat. You
are trying mostly to get an impression about the extent of neglect,
not a laundry list of needed repairs. Nonetheless, you should come
away with a mental list of deficiencies. Before you leave the
cockpit, erect the ragtop, roll the windows up and down and see that
the door locks work. Check the condition of the door and window
seals. Be extra alert for corrosion damage from deteriorated rubber
or canvas that has allowed rain to seep in. If the rear window leaks,
for instance, you can expect water to collect under the spare wheel in
an E-type coupe. Take out the carpets with an eye for rust.
Check under the bonnet. Check the color and level of oil. Is the
viscosity about right, or has someone added a half a dozen cans of STP
treatment to quite that bearing knock? Look for oil in the coolant.
Is the coolant weak or just plain water? Was it stored this way?
Drain a few cc from the stopcock into a cup and check for sediment.
Look for sediment also in the fuel bowl and hydraulic reservoirs. If
you can get permission, unscrew _every_ sparkplug. Check their color.
Now is a good time to check the compression if you have a pressure
gauge. Take off the air filter and note its condition. Peer inside
the carburetors and try the best you can to check for wear on the
needle and jet. The piston should not bind. Wiggle the throttle
shaft to see if the bushes are worn, which will allow air to leak in.
Squeeze the heater hoses--any scale inside? Give the rack bellows and
ball joint seals the once over. Be alert for more serious damage if
these seals have perished. Look at the frame to see if there is any
sign of collision damage. Move the steering wheel and watch the rack;
check the mounting bushes if it moves too much. Where is the oil
leaking? How are the engine mounts? Is the windshield washer
reservoir full? Fan belt tight? The first time you start a cold
engine will give you the best information. Oil has drained from the
rockers to the cylinders and the oil passages and bearings are dry.
Start the engine and look at the exhaust immediately. How long does
it take for the blue smoke to clear? Stick your finger in the exhaust
pipes and look at what comes out. Plug the exhaust with your palms
and check for leaks. Check the oil pressure through a range of RPMs.
Listen to the engine after you first start it and before the oil
pressure builds; a knocking that quickly dissipates may indicate worn
bearings. Set the parking brake and engage the highest gear
available. Run the RPM up to about 3000 and let the clutch out. Give
it full throttle. You are trying to see if the clutch slips. Don't
do it for more than a few seconds. How does the engine sound under
load? You will know it if that 9:1 engine is being fed economy
unleaded. Leave the parking brake on and try to drive in first and
reverse. How effective is the brake? Sometimes a bad U-joint or worn
rear suspension will make itself known now; listen for it. Check the
radiator and look for signs of leaks. How new is the water pump? How
old is the battery and is the level correct? Check out the extent of
corrosion near the battery. Maybe you want to remove it and have a
look see underneath.
Next check out the trunk. Remove everything and lay it out on the
ground. Pretend you are an anthropologist at a dig. It's amazing
what finds its way here. Every item has a story; try to seduce it out
of the seller. Now is good time to ask about spares tucked away in
the garage. Look at the condition of the spare tire--this is probably
a good indicator of how far things deteriorate before the owner takes
action. Look for rust and collision damage inside the trunk. Shove
your arm inside the body where you can't see and feel about the
fender. Look at the color of your hand when you withdraw it. Smell
for petrol leaks near the gas tank. Check the condition of any rubber
bits close to the gas tank; gasoline accelerates rubber deterioration.
Use the jack to lift each wheel from the ground. Give the wheel a
strong shake and try to identify the source of play. Rock the wheels
too, and put some muscle in it. Spin the wheel round. Check for
concentricity and even tread wear. Look at the brakes and hydraulic
lines. Look at the suspension, too. Check the car's underbelly while
you have it jacked up. Rap sharply on the frame members with
something solid.
Take a test drive in the car. You know what you like better than I
do. Try minimum radius turns in both directions in a parking lot and
listen for noises. Find some railroad tracks to drive over. Try to
gauge the wear on the gearbox syncros. Take the car to the freeway,
too. Oh, and try braking hard. Does the car pull? For fun, try
braking in both left and right turns.
Most sellers have indulged me. Does anyone else have inspection
secrets that they're willing to divulge?
-greg
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