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Jensen Healey rebuild, etc.

To: british-cars@autox.team.net
Subject: Jensen Healey rebuild, etc.
From: toms@stones.sharebase.com (Tom Sabo)
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 93 10:36:28 PDT
JENSEN HEALEY ENGINES...
I rebuilt my Jensen Healey engine about 5 years ago.  Bought all the
good stuff: New flat-top pistons (.030 over) with rings and liners...
That alone cost around $600.
Gasket kit: $100
BEARINGS: $250 !!!
Exhaust valves: $120
If you want to add cams, valve springs, adjustable belt sprockets
(check your old ones for wear), you are looking at another $500.

Go through Dave Bean Engineering.  They are much cheaper than Delta
MotorSports (and is where Delta gets their stuff from).

JENSEN HEALEY OWNERS...
And I think this applies to the large TRIUMPHS as well...
Remember to remove the mud exclusion plates from the inside of the
rear wheel wells and clean out accumulated dirt.  Now that water is
on the road, it will spray up and turn the accumulated dirt into mud,
which will stay wet for weeks and rust away the bottom of your
fender panels... first appearing as paint bubbles at the bottom
of your fenders (Front fenders on some cars too).  When I first did
my car (after a 6 month old paint job was ruined by paint bubbles...
Don't trust a body shop to fix this right), I removed about 1 1/2
inches of mud from the panels.  Next I brushed fiberglass resin
over the bottom and lower sides.  Repeated... then painted the
entire area black.  Worked beautifully... And will never rust again
from the inside.

BONDO...
YES! Bondo is hydroscopic (absorbs water),  I sugggest laying up
fiberglass to fill rust holes, rips, etc. to keep water away from
it.  Most auto parts chain stores carry a "fiberglass repair kit"
that should work fine.

NITRIDING CRANKS.
TeriAnn writes:
> nitriting adds about .003 to the crank & needs to be accounted for

Is this true?  Anybody else have any experience with this operation?

--toms.


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