>
> With the car thus lifted off the pavement, it was relatively easy for
> me to get far enough under it to get to all the bellhousing bolts, and
> with the air wrench, they come off in five seconds each instead of five
> minutes each. Unfortunately, the starter still has to be frobbed by
> hand -- or rather, I couldn't find a place from which I could get
> the impact butterfly to drive everything necessary to make it go.
> Maybe it's time for air tool #2, a small air ratchet. But while I was
> twiddling the lower (fine-threaded) starter bolt, I was glad I decided
> not to try to do the pistons in place. I was to be even more glad a
> little later.
>
There's any easier way to deal with that lower starter bolt; don't. Take
out the top bolt only, and leave the starter on the engine. This only
works on 4 syncro cars.
> But with luck and a good deal more hard work, this car will be back
> on the road by the end of the month, and ready for its smog test after
> the rings have some running-in time. (Again, any advice on how to
> get the rings to seat most quickly will be gratefully accepted; no,
> Roland, I don't think *I* would run them without oil either...)
I use lighter oil for break-in; 10-30. 20-50 (or 15-50 Mobil 1) goes
in at the 700 mile mark. Other than that, things are pretty much as you
described. If it has a new camshaft, I do run it at 2200 rpm for the
first 30 minutes or so. This has to do with properly seating the camlobes
and lifters; nothing to do with rings.
>
> If anything, it should go back together more smoothly than it came
> out, hence my subject line, one of the Big Lies of all technical
> writing.
> --Scott "Yeah, and childbirth is just conception in reverse" Fisher
The two things that can be a bear on a B engine installation are stabbing
the clutch, and getting all the bellhousing bolts through the holes. Nothing
I can offer on the former (experience pays off here), but I can tell you
the exact order tpo put the bell bolts in.
First, put the starter back on the engine with the lower bolt before
installing. Stab the clutch ( :> ). install the upper starter bolt by hand.
Do not tighten; the lock washer should still rattle. This is just to keep the
engine from sliding back off of the clutch. Next align the engine mounts
and start all the bolts. Again, do not tighten. Now the trick. From under
the car, knock in the lower right bell bolt, and tighten until there is
a 1/16" gap between the engine and trans. Now knock in the lower left bolt,
no nut yet. Then, knock in the upper right bolt, lock washer, nut, and
tighten. Tighten the lower left, then the lower right, then install and
tighten the the other four. Now, and only now, you can tighten the top
starter bolt and the mount bolts.
The top right and lower left bell bolts are a "press" fit in their holes.
These two bolts double as dowels to pilot the bellhousing to the block.
They must be tightened first or else things won't be lined up correctly and
some of the bolts won't fit through. The lower right bolt is used to pull
things close enough that you can get the two dowel bolts started.
Randy
randy@taylor.wyvern.com
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