On Fri, 24 Jun 1994, David Bird wrote:
> [much deleted] ... we found that the fuel pump (a "replacement type")
> wasn't working. We took it off to find that the pin that the arm that
> is driven by the cam pivots on, had fallen out (not completely, but
> enough to stop the pump from working). The mechanic banged it back in,
> but there seems to be no way to make sure that it won't fall out again.
> Surely it should have circlips or cotter pins or something to hold it
> in place, but since both ends are flush with the pump body, there is no
> way of attaching such fasteners. Is > this a common problem?
The original TR2/3/4 fuel pump has circlips on both ends of the pivot
shaft. Some replacement pumps do, some don't. Those that don't usually
have the diecast pump body peened around the shaft to keep it in place.
If the ends of the shaft are truly flush with the body, use a pointed
punch or the corner of a very small cold chisel to dimple the pot metal
right next to the shaft ends. Four dimples per end should do it. This
squeezes the pot metal against the shaft, holding it in place.
If the shaft ends are slightly below the surface of the pump body, use a
very small pin puch to peen the pot metal over the ends of the shaft.
If you get fed up with the whole arrangement, take off the mechanical
pump, cover the pump hole with a blanking plate, and install a
high-pressure SU electric pump at the rear of the car (among other
things, this helps to prevent vapor lock in hot weather). This is what I
did on my TR4. After all, British cars are _supposed_ to click merrily
away when you switch on the ignition... :-)
Chip Old 1948 M.G. TC TC6710
feold@umd5.umd.edu 1962 Triumph TR4 CT3154LO (daily transportation)
|