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Will Zehring writes:
> I'm about to paint the rebuilt engine for my '63 B. I was
> going to clean it with some brake solvent (to get the assembly
> lube finger prints off of everything). Should I also clean it
> with some cola? I suppose the final rinse is with water to
> remove the sugar, too.
My own parts cleaner or choice is carburetter cleaner. However,
as someone else on the list pointed out once, don't get it on
something that's already painted. I've used it on quite a few
things, including engine blocks, and found it works really well!
I would think brake cleaner should also work quite nicely, though.
Maybe if you use cola first, and then a solvent you could skip
the water step? Does the block have enough external rust to
make such action necessary? (My engines are usually so greasy
they don't have a speck of rust -- British cars are very good
about rust-proofing themselves if driven regularly.)
NEW TOPIC:
I'm pulling the engine out of my big Healey vintage racer to
put in a rear seal -- the Lead Sled tends to pee a puddle of
oil when I get back to the paddock area after a race, and the
clutch started to slip a bit coming out of the hairpin turns
last month at the Abiline Sunburn Gran Prix. While I'm at
it, I plan to check bearing clearances, etc. One of the guys
who also races a big Healey here in TX is suggesting that I
mill about 50-60 thousandths off the head to raise the
compression ratio a bit. Query -- How much benefit (in terms
of per cent horsepower increase) can I expect from raising the
compression from somewhere around eight to maybe ten to one?
I just have an aversion to doing things that can't be undone,
but I'm also a bit tired of losing the drag races down some
of the long straights.
-- Dave L. --
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