I was working on my '70 TR6 this weekend, and found a few puzzlers.
First, my turn signals (which had been causing problems if people
remember) went away. I didn't seem to be getting reasonable voltage at the
flasher, and I'd already been planning on installing a new wire from the
fusebox to it (I was losing 1V between battery and flasher), so I put the new
wire in, complete with LUCAR connectors - might as well do it right. No
change. :-( I finally found the problem - the non-functional hazard switch
had decided to start functioning (the hazard flasher unit is dead, B.O. from
TRF).
However, in hunting it down I found where I'm losing the volt - the
ignition switch and/or its wiring. I have 12.5V going into the switch, and
11.4V going into the fuses. Many of the wires attached to the switch got
toasted (partially) by a PO - insulation bubbled but not gone. The switch
electrics are fairly new - the old electrics were stripped when I bought it so
I replaced them. I never noticed a problem with the voltage drop until I
installed a new flasher unit that's very sensitive to voltage/current.
I really don't want to replace the wiring harness if I can avoid it.
It's a pain to do and would require taking it off the road for quite a while.
Any other ideas?
TR6 carbs:
While I was fiddling around I was checking the carb numbers against the
TRF Blue Book. The carb's don't match what should be on the car, or any other
year...
The tags say 3385. That's correct for engines after CC58xxx - my
engine is CC53035 (car is CC53039). My car should have 3375's (if I remember
correctly), which have vacuum advance and retard. 3385's aren't supposed to
have vacuum advance fittings - these do. The vacuum advance fitting is
supposed to be on the front carb - it's on the rear.
It sounds like TRF doesn't know about some variations in the carbs
that occurred. The only other possibility I can think of is that someone
replaced the carbs with later ones, and added a vacuum advance fitting to the
rear carb. This seems unlikely...
The reason I was fiddling around was to look at the bypass valves,
since my car idles high. Of course, I found I've got the "no-tamper" bypass
valves with the brass over the screwhead. Any good tricks to removing the
plug? Even better, to removing it without removing the carbs?
Randell Jesup, Scala US R&D
Randell.Jesup@scala.com
Ex-Commodore-Amiga Engineer, class of '94
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