If there's too much air in the line the clutch won't disengage, so
that's not likely your problem. If you haven't changed the slave
cylinder or clutch you shouldn't need to adjust the slave cylinder.
If your new clutch master cylinder has a threaded end where it cleaves
(thanks to Stan Chernoff for explaining this to me) you may need to
adjust the part that connects to the clutch pedal. In my case, the
clutch pedal was always partially pressed and this was keeping it from
completely engaging the clutch.
One quick and dirty way to check this is bend back the "rest" arm that
stops the clutch pedal from going further up (I don't know the proper
name for this but you'll see it if you look in the footwell.) If the
clutch pedal rises further up, your new master cylinder isn't the
"original" type and hopefully has a threaded end that can be adjusted.
Disconnect the master cylinder from the clutch pedal and thread the
thingie on further, then reattach. On mine I had to screw it in as far
as it would go but then it was perfect.
Sorry for all the technical mumbo-jumbo; if you'd like I can send you a
couple of pictures of what I mean.
Adam
'70 1600
--- Scott Perschke <s.perschke@mindspring.com> wrote:
> I recently installed a clutch master cylinder rebuild kit. I have
> run 3-4
> resoivoirs worth of hydraulic fluid through by bleeding at the slave
> cylinder, but the cluch pedal still has very little resistance, and
> the
> gears won't engage. Is there a trick to bleeding or priming the
> master
> cylinder? I see bleed nipples on the brake M/C but none on the
> clutch M/C.
> Thanks for any help.
> Scott P.
> '69 2000
=====
Adam
'70 1600 SPL311-28181
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