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EI Dizzy Conversion

To: gboone@sisna.com
Subject: EI Dizzy Conversion
From: WisslerJon@aol.com
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 13:51:16 EST
Gary,

It's a beautiful sunny day here in Portland, OR and I decided to drop the new 
EI dizzy I just bought from you in my 69 2000.  Proving once again that I 
have absolutely NO electrical knowledge, I need to ask a few clarifying 
questions so I don't blow anything up.  I copied the list in case someone out 
there already knows the answer.

1.) Bypassing the ballast resistor.  I thought I'd go ahead and leave the 
ballast resistor in place, but bypass it with the jumper cable you provided.  
Do I leave the two existing wires coming out of the harness to the ballast 
resistor in place and add the jumper, or do I pull the existing wires and 
tape them off and replace them with the jumper cable?

2.) In the wiring connections section you mention to "don't forget to connect 
the wire that comes from the igintion switch (via the ballast resitor) to the 
(+) terminal of the 12 volt coil."  There are only two wires coming into my 
ballast resistor from the harness that comes out of the firewall.  They both 
appear to be black with a thin dirty white stripe on them.  I don't see any 
wire going from the ballast resistor to the coil.  There is a third seperate 
but similarly colored wire coming out of the same harness that went to the 
(+) side of my old coil.  It clips onto a dual connector on the coil 
terminal, and there is another wire that goes to a small cylindrical object 
that looks like a resistor of some sort that mounts with the top bolt of the 
coil bracket.  I hooked this to the (+) terminal of the new 12 volt coil per 
your "the wire(s) originaly connected to the (+) terminal of the coil will 
need to be reconnected to the (+) terminal of the 12 volt coil" instructions. 
 Is this all I have to do?

3.) My timing adjustment plate only goes to 10 degrees A (Advanced) and R 
(Retarded).  I assume advanced is the same as Before (as in BTDC).  I believe 
each of the timing marks represent 5 degrees of advance.  I set it on 16 and 
the reluctor and stator tips BARELY meet with the distributor cranked as far 
as it can go towards A (Advanced).  Will this cause me any problems, or 
should I try to lossen the adjustment plate so I can get it to advance a tad 
more?  Will the car start OK without the reluctor/stator tips aligned?

For those of you who haven't done this, despite my ineptitude, Gary provides 
a beautiful looking conversion product. It looks brand spanking new, and the 
instructions are excellent except for complete idiots like myself.  As soon 
as I get it fired up I'll give everybody a review of performance gains.

///  datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net mailing list


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