Hi Allen,
I too am agonizing over these shim things.
Although it is not hard to insert them at any time (they are cut
through so you can slip them over the axle shaft without removing the
axle) the thickness and such is, I figure, based on a certain end
float value of the assembled axle.
Yes, No???
I also figure that the original shims, if any, are only of use if the
new bearings are exactly the same dimensions as the old ones, and that
the shim value was correct then.
My Service Manuals all insist on the shim for bearing pre-load but
don't specify how to measure or what values you are shooting for.
Can anyone elucidate?????
Regards,
Graeme Suckling
1965 SP310 - under construction DSOA Member # 112
www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4291195515
1971 P510 4 door - daily driver, original owner, highly modified.
www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4290669159
1972 P510 2 door - in storage.
1973 HS30/240Z - re-building to 2003 specs.
www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4291183313
Adelaide, South Australia.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Allen
Sent: Sunday, 2 March 2003 8:56 AM
To: datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
Subject: Rear axle bearings and shims
To List,
I'm in the process of replacing my rear axle/wheel bearings. I've
noticed
some interesting things about how the PO took care of them. Most
concerning
is the lack of any shims on them. I've looked at the repair manual
and it
says there should be two shims per wheel. Also, others on the List
have
pointed out how important it is to make I put the shims on correctly.
Since I
don't have any, what should I do? Any advice would be GREATLY
appreciated.
On a side note, thanks to all who gave me rear brake cylinder advice.
The new
ones are on and look great!
Allen
1970 2000
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