Quite a change in the weather. Just days ago, it was hot, way fetchin' hot.
On my way back from the shop tonight, I had the heater in the Jeep fired up.
I don't think summer will last forever. Just the night to be sitting here
at the keyboard with a nice, hearty porter in hand.
Actually I'm glad I was able to drive home with all appendages, senses and
such intact. A week or two ago, "my" TR-250 found its way back to the shop.
I recently sold it to a local fellow, who's really an MG person, but I don't
hold it against him. You should have seen him flogging Killer around the
course at our annual Field Day this summer! Anyway, the 250 sat for quite
some time before it came under his care, and the OEM leather seal on the nose
of the diff decided to dry out and quit sealing. Mike, the new owner, was not
amused by the puddles left under the back of the car, so he thought he'd fix
it. Out come the jacks, up goes the car, and as he checks around he finds the
right front diff mount cracked. Gee, what a surprise, I've never heard of
IRS Triumphs having trouble with the diff mounts.
So the 250 is in for some frame welding and reinforcement, and a new front seal
on the diff. The welding work was finished up a few days ago, the one spot on
my arm where a blob of molten slag found its way to bare skin is almost healed.
The final coat of gloss black paint for the diff was applied early this week,
with the unit perched upright on the pinion flange. The next day, I enter the
shop and a puddle of gear oil surrounds the diff. Drat.
Closer inspection reveals that it wasn't the front seal, but one of the stub
axle seals that spilled the beans, so to speak. No, it wasn't Castrol R, but
actually a Valvoline synthetic blend. So I've put in a bit of time digging
out axles from various parts diffs I have here and there. They all leak.
I rummage around in boxes, storage tubs and shelves, and somehow manage
to find a new bearing and seal in stock. Now, all I have to do is take
apart one of the leaky units, and replace the seal, doing a fresh bearing
while I'm at it..
You may remember Bob Bownes and his recent query about getting the drive flange
off the stub axle. It isn't easy, but it can be done. So tonight I figure that
I'll do a bit of preliminary work on the axle assembly, and get serious with
it tomorrow. Clamp it in a vise, undo the lock nut, slap a big 3 jaw puller on
it. Several generous squirts of PB Blaster should help, too. You know, this
original axle from the car doesn't look very rusty or corroded or anything.
Maybe it will come off easily. Well, not THAT easily. Another half turn or
so on the puller, then I'll put some heat on the flange and let it rest for
the night. Out comes the mapp gas. I'm amazed by the way that the Zynolite
Epoxy, which I painted on before I knew the seal leaked, holds up to the heat.
Interesting. A little more heat to show the bloody bits that I mean business,
then I'll call it a night before tackling it again in the morning.
The next thing I know, my ears are ringing, and I'm rubbing my shoulder where
a 3 jaw puller falling out of the sky just slammed into it, as I hop about due
to an axle flange landing on my foot. At least I remembered to turn off the
torch, rather than just heaving it into that container of oily rags! God,
these cars are fun!