If you are concerned with pan being too low, just make a double plate that
covers
the front and the bottom. Just pick your favorite thickness steel plate ( maybe
.0625") easy to bend under a shop door and a broom or jack handle, and tack it
into place to cover the front and bottom. Sure beats spinning off in your own
oil
cause the motor just went South.
Bob Lang wrote:
> Hey,
>
> Speaking of oil pan baffles, I'm interested too. Does everyone pretty
> much follow the Comp. Prep. Guide in this regard... I'm reluctant to drop
> my oil pan any deeper than the frame goes, and the TR6 C.P.Guide suggests
> that you do this... it looks like if you follow the guide exaclty that
> the bottom of the pan extends as much as one inch below the frame.
>
> Seeing that I'm not known for staying on course on every run, I'd like to
> minimize the chances of ripping a hole in the oil pan if I have an "off".
> I'm pretty sure I don't have to worry about cones hurting the pan, but
> I'm thinking "dragon's teeth", like outside turn 6 at Road America... did
> you know that if you hit those that the car shakes enough to open the
> hood, er bonnet??? It happened to me last year when "touring". The race
> car has hood pins to prevent that again... but I digress.
>
> At any rate, I'd like any feedback from other TR6 folk out there on the
> oil pan baffle thing.
>
> Alternately, I'd appreciate any directions or feedback on either - or -
> plumbing with respect to an Accusump or even better direct experience with
> a dry sump system.
>
> With respect to the Accusump and dry sump systems, are they really
> necessary if you have baffles??? I'm talking about autocross and possibly
> later on some road course action (like time trialing or high speed
> "touring" with BMWCCA).
>
> regards,
> rml
>
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