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Re: Bolt Torquing

To: Friends of Triumph <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: Bolt Torquing
From: Joe Curry <spitlist@gte.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2000 19:00:24 -0700
I went to the machine shop yesterday to see how the work was coming on my 1296 
Spitfire engine and the machinist showed me the ARP rod
bolts and head studs that he just got in.  they sure don't look all that 
strong, but I guess looks can be deceiving.
 
I (rather my pocketbook) have decided to go with the Kas modified stock rods as 
well.  After checking out the price of Calillos ($255
ea.) I decided it was better to actually drive a slightly slower car than save 
my pennies another few months to afford the super
"go-fast" stuff.  Maybe in the next engine build, the Carillos will be seen.  
The machinist said that with the ARP bolts and the
preparation, he didn't see any reason those rods wouldn't stand up to the 
treatment I intend to dish out!
 
Along with the new bolts there is a chart that gives suggested torque 
specifications.  Anyway, it was his (the machinist's)
recommendation to go with the ARP bolts rather than the stock ones.
 
Regards,
Joe Curry
 
WEmery7451@aol.com wrote:
>
> Dear FOT,
>
> I rediscovered Kas's seminar on rod bolt torquing.  I did use the higher
> torques with Molly grease on the Carillo rods.  I am in the process of
> building a spare engine using magnafluxed checked, balanced, glassed peened,
> stock rods and bolts.  I probably should go to the stronged bolts, higher
> torques, and reboring the rod hole (or else use Loctite).  In the 60's, they
> were using some high grade, aircraft cap screws for rod bolts, and torquing
> them to 100 lbs.  Any sugestions, rejections, or insults are welcome.
>
> I ordered by electronic mail "Prepare to Win" by Carrol Smith as suggested by
> Greg Solow.  (I better load my shotgun.  There is some Lawyor nut running
> around my area shooting people.)

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