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First thing, make sure your fuel pressure is right--you need about 3-4 pounds.
Best way is a fuel pressure regulator and a guage downstream. It's critical.
Next, you need to tune the carbs. Take a lot of fiddling and there is no
formula. You can start with the main jet since the car will spend most of the
time at full throttle. Best place is on a dyno, second best is a lonely road
that steadily climbs uphill. Hold the trottle wide open as long as feasible,
cut the engine, coast to a stop and pull the plugs. You need an illuminated
magnifying glass to see to the bottom of the insulator. You want a light (very
light) tan color. reduce the jet size until you get that.
A through job also includes selecting the right emulsion tube and air corrector
to give you a useful 3/4 throttle.
Matthew Wilder wrote:
Hello,
I ditched my SU's in favor of a set of 40 DCOE's from Moss. I got them
Friday took them out of the box and put them on the car and ran it today
in an auto-x. They seemed to work great up to about 3500 rpm then it
just ran out of go and wouldn't make it over 5000 rpm. I'm running
about 11.5 compresion with some head mods and a "D" cam. The settings
Moss suplied are:
Air corrector jet 180
Emulsion tube F 11
Main Jet 130
Idling Jet 45 F9
Pump Jet 40
I also didn't do anything with the float level yet.
Any suggestions on what setting to use to wake this thing up?
Matt W.
'67 TR4a E-prepared Solo 2/auto-x
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Photos -- now, 100 FREE prints!
--0-1714636915-960181796=:10014
<P> First thing, make sure your fuel pressure is right--you need about 3-4
pounds. Best way is a fuel pressure regulator and a guage downstream. It's
critical.
<P>Next, you need to tune the carbs. Take a lot of fiddling and there is no
formula. You can start with the main jet since the car will spend most of the
time at full throttle. Best place is on a dyno, second best is a lonely road
that steadily climbs uphill. Hold the trottle wide open as long as feasible,
cut the engine, coast to a stop and pull the plugs. You need an illuminated
magnifying glass to see to the bottom of the insulator. You want a light (very
light) tan color. reduce the jet size until you get that.
<P>A through job also includes selecting the right emulsion tube and air
corrector to give you a useful 3/4 throttle.
<P> <BR><B><I>Matthew Wilder <MWILDER@TOP.MONAD.NET></I></B>wrote: <BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px;
PADDING-LEFT: 5px"><BR>Hello,<BR>I ditched my SU's in favor of a set of 40
DCOE's from Moss. I got them<BR>Friday took them out of the box and put them on
the car and ran it today<BR>in an auto-x. They seemed to work great up to about
3500 rpm then it<BR>just ran out of go and wouldn't make it over 5000 rpm. I'm
running<BR>about 11.5 compresion with some head mods and a "D" cam. The
settings<BR>Moss suplied are:<BR>Air corrector jet 180<BR>Emulsion tube F
11<BR>Main Jet 130<BR>Idling Jet 45 F9<BR>Pump Jet 40<BR>I also didn't do
anything with the float level yet.<BR><BR>Any suggestions on what setting to
use to wake this thing up?<BR><BR>Matt W.<BR>'67 TR4a E-prepared Solo
2/auto-x<BR><BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE><BR><p><br><hr size=1><b>Do You Yahoo!?</b><br>
<a href="http://photos.yahoo.com/";>Yahoo! Photos</a> -- now, 100 FREE prints!
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