Does that give you any adjustable proportioning? Or just two brake
circuits. What I meant by dual cylinders is two separate cylinders with a
balance bar between them to give you adjustable bias between front and
rear. Makes a huge difference in the amount of brake you can stick to the
car. And when the conditions get slick you can dial in more rear brake to
keep the car from swapping ends.
-----Original Message-----
From: Ian Cowie [mailto:ianhome@acohs.com.au]
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2001 10:09 PM
To: Bill Babcock
Subject: RE: Hello
Hi guys,
Just looking at thread. I am as you know running a 4A and building a
SuperSpit. On the latter we are NOT permitted brake proportioning valves
in
our CAMS Group Sb Historic Racing, in Oz, however can run dual master
cylinders. Accordingly I have hunted around and found the Ford Laser is
almost perfect fit as a dual master cylinder unit. In case of Spitty the
only trouble is I had to manufacture special fittings to relocate
reservoir
elsewhere (too much height). Nevertheless, it all fits now and works
great.
Just a thought - FYI
Ian
777
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fot@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-fot@autox.team.net] On
Behalf
Of Bill Babcock
Sent: Saturday, September 01, 2001 8:54 AM
To: Bob Bownes
Cc: Mike Rose; fot@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Hello
I assume you mean dual master cylinder, in fact I'm sure you do.
Of course if you have a single pushrod and it falls out you also have *no*
brakes. In fact, there is a halfassed fix, for what it's worth. You can
put an adjustable stop on both master cylinders so that if one fails,
you'll pick up the other once the balance bar hits the stop. In other
words, near the limit of travel you'll have a some of either the front or
back brakes. I believe I have seen one car so equipped--as I recall it was
an H Production rabbit race car, but my Someheimers is at full throttle
today. Probably one of those "been there, done that, don't want to do it
again" kind of fixes.
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Bownes [mailto:bownes_nic@web9.com]
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2001 3:43 PM
To: Bill Babcock
Cc: Mike Rose; fot@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Hello
Word of wisdom to the racers out there. Dual caliper brakes only work if
both are connected to the pedal. If one pushrod falls out, you have *no*
brakes. Trust me on this one. I found out 2 weeks ago at Lime Rock.
Let's just say I'm not real fond of that whole upside down thing...
Bob
Bill Babcock wrote:
>
> Brake proportioning is legal in most organizations, but you'd be better
> off setting up a balance bar with dual cylinders. Depending on your
> fabrication skills, you'll find it fairly easy to expand the stock MC
box
> to hold two Girling or Wildwood units (wlidwoods are a bolt-in girling
> replacement). Wildwood makes a weld-in balance bar bit that makes the
fab
> fairly straightforward. While you're at it, make the brake and clutch
> pedals height-adjustable so you can set up for comfortable heel-and-toe,
> and add a dead pedal to brace yourself so you can do that little dance
> accurately. I find the trickiest thing is to keep even brake pressure
> while I'm blipping the throttle--the only way you have a hope of being
> smooth at that is by being well belted in, having good adjustment of all
> the pedal heights, and having a dead pedal when you're off the clutch.
>
> I'm going to find my blueprint for the front suspension of the Cheater
TR3
> and send it to the list ASAP. A couple of folks have asked if I'm
> interested in building the bits for sale. The answer is no, but I'm glad
> to share the information. The mods work amazingly well in any venue that
> you can get away with such radical changes.
>
> Bill
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike Rose [mailto:lytspeed@wcnet.org]
> Sent: Friday, August 31, 2001 1:02 PM
> To: fot@autox.team.net
> Subject: Hello
>
> As a newly nominated member, thanks to Joe Alexander, of the FOT list, I
> would
> like to introduce myself to all of you. My name is Mike Rose and I live
> in
> Findlay, Ohio (northwestern Ohio). I am 54 years old, have owned and
> operated
> a bicycle shop for the last 25 or so years and have dreamed, literally,
of
> racing a TR3 since I was about 12 years old.
>
> My father was sales manager of the local Dodge dealership, which also
> happened
> to sell Triumph, Sunbeam, Simca (yes, Simca) and Fiat. Findlay is
located
> too
> close to Detroit, where Standard Triumph was located, for them to be put
> on
> trucks and the cars had to be driven to Findlay. So, I was often able
to
> ride
> back in TR3's and TR4's and, when I was old enough to drive myself, I
> drove
> TR4A's, Spitfires, GT6's and the occasional Herald the 100 or so miles
to
> the
> dealership. I was in heaven!
>
> I have owned and built/rebuilt too many British cars to remember, but
the
> TR3
> was always my first love. I now own a '60 TR3A and the suspension is in
> sad
> shape. I will be rebuilding the suspension this winter and I plan to
> rebuild
> it with an eye toward vintage racing the car. I have come to believe
that
> if
> I don't do it now, I will never again have the opportunity.
>
> I have no illusions about being competitive and I sincerely hope that I
> won't
> be getting in anyone's way, but I do intend to have a great time and to
> live
> out at least a major portion of my dream.
>
> I have obtained a few necessary parts (many thanks to Joe): TR4 upper
> A-arms,
> Koni shocks, TR6 rotors and calipers, competition springs, polyurethane
> bushings, 240Z alloy brake drums, etc.
>
> I will be asking questions from time to time (well, perhaps often) and I
> do
> hope that I won't be too much of a nuisance, but asking is the best way
to
> learn.
>
> In fact, speaking of questions, does anyone know whether the TR6 brake
> master
> cylinder is a bolt-on replacement for the TR3 master cylinder? Or is
> there a
> better way to go to convert to a dual braking system?
> Also, is a front/rear brake proportioning valve legal for vintage
racing?
>
> Thanks, in advance, for any help that you can give me.
>
> Mike
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